Beginner to intermediate climbs in Moab?

I am going to Moab this weekend and am wondering what are some good tower/crack/adventure routes rated below 5.9.  So far I will be doing Owl rock and Looking glass rock. Any recommendations?

Root Canal

Bullwinkle Tower (just across from Owl Rock) is 5.6 and I had fun climbing it. People claim the anchor is questionable, but I had absolutely no qualms as it included a bunch of newish webbing around massive blocks.

Not much at that grade there, best advice is to rope up with someone who can climb 5.10 and TR a bunch to learn crack climbing....lead some 5.8/9 when you can. 

Acmesalute76 wrote:

Not much at that grade there, best advice is to rope up with someone who can climb 5.10 and TR a bunch to learn crack climbing....lead some 5.8/9 when you can. 

Any short 20-50 foot cracks going at 5.10 that I can practice my technique on?

Joe Lindberg wrote:

Any short 20-50 foot cracks going at 5.10 that I can practice my technique on?

I can't think of anything that short. Just go to Indian Creek. No better place to learn (although the learning curve is steep and painful!)

Wall Street.  Good variety of single pitch stuff, no approach or commitment whatsoever.  

chris magness wrote:

Wall Street.  Good variety of single pitch stuff, no approach or commitment whatsoever.  

No crowds either!

Go to the Ice Cream Parlor in Kane Springs Canyon. You'll have a blast. If you feel like a little hike and want to do something goofy, you could do T Cat just outside of Arches. The South Six Shooter also has a moderate climb on it, but it'll be busy and it's more hiking than climbing. You could also do Wilson Arch, but be prepared to simul rappel with a 70m rope. Have fun!

Thanks all, I just wish I could ever decide on a route, that's always my biggest downfall when it comes to climbing.

Karl Kelley just presented a new book at the Moab Craggin' event this recent past weekend. he has also wrote, High on Moab.

The new book is about Indian Creek. https://americanalpineclub.org/moab-craggin-classic/

Keep in mind, for both books, proceeds go to the access fund and Karl had the organization promise that proceeds from the Indian Creek guidebook go to Indian Creek.

pretty neat!