The Devils Lake top rope cluster Fu&k thread...

ottothecow wrote:

I heard y'all might enjoy this:

A nut that appears to only be held in position by leverage from the wire... Clipped to the bar tack of a sling and equalized to a questionable cam placement.

WTF.

Anyone wana have fun with this one? Found this beauty a few weeks ago.

. Is anything sacred anymore?

Devils tower in Wyoming is,

The locals like to keep it from being climbed in june

Lol the pick above is funny, Did he think that by not clipping the 2nd beaner through all the webbing that it would have some redundancy or he just didn't clip all the way through by accident. Always  Double check 

Triple check 

Like stacking a house of cards, impressive feat!  I doubt I could pull that off.

Ted Pinson wrote:

Not to mention the fact that that is a detached rock!

I would totally trust this boulder with some way better placements,  atleast 2 super bomber pieces, 

Where neither one of these pieces qualifys as bomber 

The ultimate quality of this rig kind of depends on what the actual anchor points out of the picture are?  The masterpoint is goofy but still made up of 2 lockers... not the worst rig here,

S2k4life wrote:

Devils tower in Wyoming is,

The locals like to keep it from being climbed in june

Lol the pick above is funny, Did he think that by not clipping the 2nd beaner through all the webbing that it would have some redundancy or he just didn't clip all the way through by accident. Always  Double check 

Triple check 

Not all locals keep it from being climbed in June.  

Also, wasn't this thread dead?  Back from the dead, more like it. 

jon jugenheimer wrote: 

Lmfao

jon jugenheimer wrote:

Not all locals keep it from being climbed in june.

Lol sorry. Misinformation sucks.

What could I say that won't be quoted as wrong.

The aborigines believe it's sacred land and try and publicise to not have people climb there in June. 

I've never even been to Wyoming and I know that it's pretty known that real locals like to try and not have people climb there in june....

Ted Pinson wrote: Lol. You get no points for "almost redundant."

Lol atleasted you tried right

https://jennyabegg.com/2017/06/24/devils-tower-why-i-cant-write-about-the-voluntary-closure-2/

THREAD HIJACK!

The link above is from someone who guides out of the Lodge and spends her last two (?) summers at the tower.  That is as local as locals can get, living at Frank's place. There is no right or wrong from person to person-I am not trying to call you out as "wrong".   There is a greater community understanding not to climb in June (I personally have not, but June is always a busy work month for me) but people still do, and maybe it is "ok".  

Burt Lindquist wrote:

The ultimate quality of this rig kind of depends on what the actual anchor points out of the picture are?  The masterpoint is goofy but still made up of 2 lockers... not the worst rig here,

I'm waiting for the one carabiner to pop through the other, and scare the crap out of whoever is on the rope.  But you're right, whether or not it would fail isn't something you can tell, here.  I'm just amazed that they got it into this configuration in the first place.

Michael Denman wrote:

Anyone wana have fun with this one? Found this beauty a few weeks ago.

Oh nice ! Love the rope running over the screw gate to say the least. 

S2k4life wrote:

I would totally trust this boulder with some way better placements,  atleast 2 super bomber pieces, 

Where neither one of these pieces qualifys as bomber 

agree that the small boulder does seem to be wedged in between other solid rocks very well, so if you could sling wrap the whole thing, it would be solid.

Woodchuck ATC wrote:

Oh nice ! Love the rope running over the screw gate to say the least. 

That’s where it’s strongest, right? :p

Anyways, what do you guys think of this?  Courtesy AMGA:

Ted Pinson wrote:

That’s where it’s strongest, right? :p

Anyways, what do you guys think of this?  Courtesy AMGA:

Bomber but would be better to A. Utilitize the master point (lowest cams loop and middle cams biner) and B Use a second personal. I won't even get into how using the rope as a personal is silly ;)

Ted Pinson wrote:

That’s where it’s strongest, right? :p

Anyways, what do you guys think of this?  Courtesy AMGA:

I think that’s not quartzite, and it’s not a TR setup.  It’s one thing to guess the context in an area where I’ve spent decades, it’s another to guess to context for a random photo from the internet.

Haha yes, it is obviously not a cluster$&@k anchor from Baraboo, I’ve just never seen something like that before and wanted to see what people thought without opening the Pandora’s Box of another anchor thread.  Going to regret this, but: why are you opposed to going direct with the rope on a multi pitch, Nick?

Courtesy,

Captain Threaddrift.

Ted Pinson wrote:

Haha yes, it is obviously not a cluster$&@k anchor from Baraboo, I’ve just never seen something like that before and wanted to see what people thought without opening the Pandora’s Box of another anchor thread.  Going to regret this, but: why are you opposed to going direct with the rope on a multi pitch, Nick?

Courtesy,

Captain Threaddrift.

Adequate, not ideal assuming the placements are all bomber. If the bottom sling gets cut then you're toast, which I don't like. However, it seems to be a an anchor for a top belay so there would be a person there who can be paying attention and making sure the sling doesn't get cut.

I've done similar things like this on lead but I would rather not do it for an anchor. I think a better option would be to just clove the two racking biners on the upper cams in addition to the locker on the bottom cam. 

Stay on task.