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Ten Sleep Canyon conditions April/ May (will it be bloody freezing)

Original Post
Francesca Parratt · · Worthing, West Sussex · Joined Jun 2017 · Points: 160

Planning a road trip next year and hoping to swing by a whole host of crags, I’ve been recommended to go to Ten Sleep, but looking at the graphy thing, the season looks pretty dead at those times.

Is it worth the detour? Will it be really difficult to find partners due to this? And most importantly, will it just be a kingdom of cold brutality in those months?

Any other crag recomendations will be greatly received too :)

Lena chita · · OH · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 1,667

Yes, I would imagine that nobody but locals climb there in April/May, and you could easily hit a bad weather spell. if you are only there for short period of time.

The earliest I've been there was early June. And we had couple days of 45F for high, with freezing rain low in the canyon (snow higher up).

where do you start your trip and what else is on the list?

Ten Sleep is great, I love it as a summer destination. But it doesn't quite live up to Spanish limestone, or European limestone destinations in general, IMO. 

Francesca Parratt · · Worthing, West Sussex · Joined Jun 2017 · Points: 160

Sounds like a bit of a gamble...

Flying into Denver, going to hang around Boulder for some climbs, hopefully Garden of the Gods, then over to Moab and Maple Canyon, Red Rocks and then up to Smith Rock, I’m also hoping to try and drive up to Wisconsin and then down to Arkansas so I can tick off all the lower 48 states.

Would Devils Tower still be pretty cold too?

Lena chita · · OH · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 1,667

Devils tower might be too cold in April, but would be good in May.

maple Canyon also wouldn't be my choice for April/may. 

Moab would be great in April, and even earlier, in March.. So would Red Rocks. Smith rock would be great in April. I had climbed there in March, and there was one night when it snowed, but climbing in the sun was quite pleasant in March, I think April would be awesome. 

Francesca Parratt · · Worthing, West Sussex · Joined Jun 2017 · Points: 160

Awesome, I’ve been to Smith and around Utah in April and the weather was perfect, not too hot, not too cold, I’m hoping it’s the same for Red Rocks. I’ll have to plan the Wyoming section for later May, at least that’ll allow for it to warm up a little bit!

I am surprised about Maple Canyon, I would have thought most of Utah would be pretty decent in April, is it at altitude? 

Lena chita · · OH · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 1,667

Yeah, Maple season starts in earnest ~ in June.  My friends have been campground hosts at Maple for the past several years, so they get there in May, and it seems they every year there are pictures of heavy snow on campground sometime in mid May. I am sure there are also good climbing days in May, but if you are only there for a few days... Maybe chancy.

Francesca Parratt · · Worthing, West Sussex · Joined Jun 2017 · Points: 160

Sweet, I’m super psyched for all the climbing, I’ll leave the trip pretty open, so if when I’m near Maple or Ten Sleep the weather looks ok, I can always swing by. I’m used to weather ruining my climbing, i’m based in England, AKA the land of rain and misery!

Thanks for the tips :)

Travis Bieber · · Fort Collins · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 741

If you are up near that area you should make a stop in Spearfish Canyon. By April/May a few sun facing walls heat up quick. 

Brad Wright · · Australia · Joined Jan 2018 · Points: 0

Hi Francesca, I can't help you with any condition beta but I'll be visiting the states from Australia at the same time as you and I'm wanting to climb in some of the same areas. It would be awesome to have a reliable climbing partner and some one to do some road tripping with. My only sure plans at this stage are Red River Gorge in April, then ill be heading west for May and June. Some of the areas i would like to visit (but am not restricted to) are Smith Rock, Maple Canyon, Rifle, Lander and Ten Sleep. Im also Leaving my plans pretty open and will be chasing the better weather. Please get in touch if you're interested and we can talk more.

Brad  

Anthony Sandoval · · Newcastle · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 25
Travis Bieber wrote:

If you are up near that area you should make a stop in Spearfish Canyon. By April/May a few sun facing wall heat up quick. 

Sunshine rocks should be good around that time frame. Not canyon proper, but as the name suggests it does see a good amount of sun.

Travis Bieber · · Fort Collins · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 741
climberish · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 10

Skip garden of the gods, there are wayyyy better places to climb in the Front Range...

Anthony Sandoval · · Newcastle · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 25

Newcastle, WY has our own little local bouldering garden we call White Rock just 5 minutes from town. The land is all privately owned so there isn't publication on it. I will see if I can post a couple pics here soon.

Anthony Sandoval · · Newcastle · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 25
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Wyoming, Montana, Dakotas
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