Mountain Project Logo

Black Diamond ATC Pilot's out, rep confirmed shipping tomorrow.

Andrew Rice · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 11
Kyle Taylor wrote:

Dude coming from the cycling world as I have, I will never complain about climbing gear pricing. Shit is cheap! 

So true. In the cycling world it would be made of carbon, weigh nothing and cost $300.

Kyle Taylor · · Broomfield CO · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 0
AndrewArroz wrote:

So true. In the cycling world it would be made of carbon, weigh nothing and cost $300.

For sure! It's all about perspective. My tires are nearly $100 a pop and I'll be damned if I don't cut a sidewall on the first big descent! Climbing stuff is affordable, saves your life and last a long time!

Andrew Rice · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 11

I'm a cyclist, too, and always have a bit of a chuckle about people spending three weeks of painful overanalysis to decide how to save $10 on some cams that they need to potentially save their own life. Having a bike has taught me to just drop the $$ where needed. 

Kyle Taylor · · Broomfield CO · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 0
AndrewArroz wrote:

I'm a cyclist, too, and always have a bit of a chuckle about people spending three weeks of painful overanalysis to decide how to save $10 on some cams that they need to potentially save their own life. Having a bike has taught me to just drop the $$ where needed. 

Exactly. Some shit is essential. You can't eat out for less than 10 bucks anymore. What's 45 on a belay device you'll have for at least a year, even if you climb constantly. Wanna talk about a money pit? Race mountain bikes.

Justin Brown · · Bend, OR · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 120

I do t know why people have to choose sides on what to use.  I have used the Pilot a few days now.  Super easy to use, light, inexpensive, locks up well.  It’s a big improvement over a non assisted locking device.  Use it if you want. Don’t if you want.  It’s a good device, works well, seems durable. 

Nathan · · Tel Aviv · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 107
Taylor Lapeyre wrote:

Got the Pilot yesterday, been using it in the gym for lead climbing since. Some notes:

  1. It's actually pretty light. The body is made out of plastic, while the business end is made of steel. When you attach it to a carabiner you get kind of a "hollow cowbell" sound as it jangles around. It sounds a little "cheap"? Kinda would have rathered the whole body be steel since you probably aren't bringing this guy up any muiltipitches or anything. 

I've tried to break the one bottom bit, it's incredibly resilient, much more so than plastic. 

Nathan · · Tel Aviv · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 107
adeadhead wrote:

I've tried to break the one bottom bit, it's incredibly resilient, much more so than plastic. 

If you look up the material it's made of you can find a bunch of industrial testing. 

Paul Deger · · Colorado · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 36

When the Pilot release was delayed, I purchased a Salawa Ergo which appeared quite similar. The Ergo is too grabby when belaying a leader - locking when trying to quickly provide slack. 

After further research, I purchased a Megajul 2 which I have been pleased with - feeds slack like a tuber with added security of passive breaking. 

I appreciate early adopters of Pilot sharing your reviews as I am debating the value of a third purchase - still on the fence.

Kyle Taylor · · Broomfield CO · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 0
Paul Deger wrote:

When the Pilot release was delayed, I purchased a Salawa Ergo which appeared quite similar. The Ergo is too grabby when belaying a leader - locking when trying to quickly provide slack. 

After further research, I purchased a Megajul 2 which I have been pleased with - feeds slack like a tuber with added security of passive breaking. 

I appreciate early adopters of Pilot sharing your reviews as I am debating the value of a third purchase - still on the fence.

I used my pilot yesterday at the crag for the first time. I'm impressed with it so far but it did lock up a few times I had to feed fast slack bc of a clip or high step. Not certain it's my technique or the device as if yet.

michael s · · Denver, CO · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 80

zzzzzZZZZZZZzzzzzzzzzz................

JRZane · · Jersey · Joined Dec 2015 · Points: 95
Kyle Taylor wrote:

I used my pilot yesterday at the crag for the first time. I'm impressed with it so far but it did lock up a few times I had to feed fast slack bc of a clip or high step. Not certain it's my technique or the device as if yet.

this is actually the question I have with the Pilot.  I got a Jul2 and began using it, but I found the jul2 to be a little grabby when feeding out lots of slack, and after a Take, I have to manually lift the device with my thumb in order to start paying out rope again (whereas with an ATC I can just create a litle slack int he rope and the device loosens grip allowing for paying out rope).  

Does the pilot grab so hard after a take/catch? Can you just push a little slack into the device with the brake hand and have it release easily?  makes all the difference if id use it or not.

Kyle Taylor · · Broomfield CO · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 0
JRZane wrote:

this is actually the question I have with the Pilot.  I got a Jul2 and began using it, but I found the jul2 to be a little grabby when feeding out lots of slack, and after a Take, I have to manually lift the device with my thumb in order to start paying out rope again (whereas with an ATC I can just create a litle slack int he rope and the device loosens grip allowing for paying out rope).  

Does the pilot grab so hard after a take/catch? Can you just push a little slack into the device with the brake hand and have it release easily?  makes all the difference if id use it or not.

I ended up getting rid of it- just wasn't my cup of tea. Once it locks up due to any take or fall- it's kind of a pain imo to get it unlocked. I would still say try it however, you may like it

dino74 · · Oceanside, CA · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 70
JRZane wrote:

I found the jul2 to be a little grabby when feeding out lots of slack, and after a Take, I have to manually lift the device with my thumb in order to start paying out rope again 

The Jul2 doesn't work well if you belay it like an ATC. You have to keep your thumb in the loop and push up slightly when feeding rope. At first, it felt awkward to have your hand so close to the device but you get used to it very quickly.

Aleks Zebastian · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 175

climbing friend,

it is quite nice they attempt utilize "assisted brake" and make the deadly ATC less deadly

Nathan · · Tel Aviv · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 107
Aleks Zebastian wrote:

climbing friend,

it is quite nice they attempt utilize "assisted brake" and make the deadly ATC less deadly

You should get comfortable belaying with a regular atc before you make things easier with an assisted braking device, don't cripple yourself by starting with an assisted braking crutch that you can't live without. 

Paul Deger · · Colorado · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 36
dino74 wrote:

The Jul2 doesn't work well if you belay it like an ATC. You have to keep your thumb in the loop and push up slightly when feeding rope. At first, it felt awkward to have your hand so close to the device but you get used to it very quickly.

After some practice I found that my brake hand always maintaining the position of under the thumb hook to keep the MJ2 away from the biner, allowing free rope movement and my non-brake hand alternating between the climber and brake side depending upon feeding out or taking in rope. No unintentional locking up and still fast braking when needed.

RobG814 · · Wilmington, NC · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 335

I have been using a MegaJul for the past year and a half and I am happy with it. I got the MegaJul sport about 6 months ago and I think it is an improvement for single pitch. Smooth pay out and much smoother for rappelling in locking mode.

I just tried the ATC Pilot for the first time this week and I like it a lot so far. Very smooth when paying out or taking in as well as lowering. This will probably be my go to device for single pitch climbing for the time being.

cdec · · SLC, UT · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 654
adeadhead wrote:

You should get comfortable belaying with a regular atc before you make things easier with an assisted braking device, don't cripple yourself by starting with an assisted braking crutch that you can't live without. 

This is utter non-sense. Should we all be taught to drive rear wheel drive cars with manual steering and transmissions, no seat belts and non-abs brakes before enjoying the improvements made that make automobiles safer and easier to drive.

If you learn to belay with an ATC pilot you had better also learn the differences of and how to belay with any other device you choose to use. 

It doesn't matter what device you use if you use it correctly. 

Aleks Zebastian · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 175
adeadhead wrote:

You should get comfortable belaying with a regular atc before you make things easier with an assisted braking device, don't cripple yourself by starting with an assisted braking crutch that you can't live without. 

climbing friend,

perhaps, and perhaps 'tis not fair but I would still be quite terrified to grasp the climbing rocks with someone utilizing this deadly ATC or other tube style device, sporting your PAS thong, and boldly flashing 5.10s.

all your flash are belong to me.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Climbing Gear Discussion
Post a Reply to "Black Diamond ATC Pilot's out, rep confirmed sh…"

Log In to Reply
Welcome

Join the Community

Create your FREE account today!
Already have an account? Login to close this notice.

Get Started