Mountain Project Logo

Camp Cassin Bladerunner thoughts?

Kyle Tarry · · Portland, OR · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 528

I wouldn't worry too much there.  My issues have been on longer sections of steep hard ice, and I don't think you'll encounter much of that on Lib Ridge.  Bladerunners are heavy crampons to carry up a route that big though, and you probably don't need something that "technical".

(Disclaimer: haven't actually climbed it.  Was going to this year but didn't work out...)

Chris C · · Seattle, WA · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 407
Kyle Tarry wrote:

I like my pair, but I find they don't climb very well on hard ice (like glacier ice).  My theory is that the horizontal+vertical points displace a ton of ice, limited penetration.  Plus they don't climb mixed as well as a mono due to the dual points.

Still, quite good all-around crampons.

Yup, totally agree. The displacement of the T-point is more than ideal for hard ice. However, walking around a glacier or steep snow with monos just feels too unstable for me. I think the T points climb mixed better than normal horizontal points, but of course not as good as monos. 

I’m really interested in the BD Snaggletooths. They could be the best of both words when climbing a big glaciated route with varied terrain. 

Regarding Lib Ridge, I also haven’t climbed it yet. But from the looks of it, my Bladerunners would be pretty close to my last choice! 

Jacon · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 200

I've had G14s, G20s, G22s, and used many others—the Blade Runners are the best crampon I've ever used.  It's not the versatility that does it for me, though that's nice.  It's that all the details are right.  The front points are easy to change, and have almost have a slight recurve.  The kinked rail that seats into the heel of the boot is a true innovation—makes these even better for pure ice and low angle ice than straight rigid 'pons (though, of course, these are quite rigid).  The secondary points are excellent, the fit is superb (on several different boots).  

They're not what I'd pick for overhanging mixed sport routes, nor are they what I use on non-technical glaciers, but for an all-around, quiver-of-one crampon, I think they're the best ever made.

Also, Black Diamond crampons seem to break a lot.  Why do people keep using them? 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Climbing Gear Discussion
Post a Reply to "Camp Cassin Bladerunner thoughts? "

Log In to Reply
Welcome

Join the Community

Create your FREE account today!
Already have an account? Login to close this notice.

Get Started