Is it possible to protect a flaring roof crack?
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Lets say the flare opens at an angle of 14.5 degrees directly downwards. This is wide enough that a c4 will roll right out of its placement putting zero outward force on the rock. Is there some technique or piece of pro that has a chance of working in such a situation? Has anyone encountered a situation where something like this was the only option for protection? Did you manage to protect it? |
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I don't personally use Totem cams (I find them too bulky), but in theory, they should be able to hold in more open downward facing flares (since their camming angle is around 20deg), although they require a pretty high coefficient of friction with the rock to do so (>0.3 or so)... BTW: a c4 will theoretically have zero holding power if the flare angle is 29deg (2*camming angle), not 14.5, but perhaps you mean half-angle... All the math is here: http://totem.totemmt.netdna-cdn.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/IndarEbazpena.pdf |
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That PDF is not publicly accessible. |
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Alex R wrote: A well placed bolt would work... |
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Alex R wrote: The link works for me... |
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Can you pound in an angle piton to match the size? Otherwise yes, what Brian in SLC said above. |
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Eric and Lucie wrote: I was able to search the pdf name and find this link that does work: www.totemcams.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/IndarEbazpena.pdf |
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Is it possible opposing two offset cams could work when the crack is to flaring for a totem? This would multiply the forces on the cams, so it would depend on how angled the offsets could be in there placement. I am not at all experienced with making placements in flares so I may be missing something. And yes I know that this set up involves using an American death triangle which strongly implies that the next comment will contain the phrase "You're gonna die." |
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Whenever a crack is flairing outward, I like to place a lot of pieces. 15 pieces of flair are a good minimum, but sometimes I like to go up to maybe 37 pieces of flair, and we should all encourage this. |
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Pnelson wrote: I'm going to need you to go ahead and place a few more pieces. Yeah... that'd be great. |
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Alex R wrote: Really interesting idea I think. I would not use a triangle as you show since this would further increase the load on the cams due to pulley action; In other words, I'd rather clip around both strands of the triangle; no need for redundancy anyway... if one cam blows, the whole thing is toast! |