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Arkansas Multi Pitch

Original Post
Anonymous · · Unknown Hometown · Joined unknown · Points: 0

Does anybody know of any multi pitch climbs in arkansas? Public or Private land

Creed Archibald · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 1,016

There is a 4 pitch traverse called "The Grand Traverse." People apparently like it because it's "multi pitch," but I thought it was a stupid choss pile.

For multi pitch, "go west young man."

Anonymous · · Unknown Hometown · Joined unknown · Points: 0
Creed A wrote:

There is a 4 pitch traverse called "The Grand Traverse." People apparently like it because it's "multi pitch," but I thought it was a stupid choss pile.

For multi pitch, "go west young man."

Yes, I have heard of the grand traverse. I heard that it was pretty dumb, and sketchy in places. I would figure there might be something that is a little taller than all the single pitches here, but I do not know. Maybe something on private land..

Ryan Surface · · Kansas City · Joined May 2014 · Points: 438

There are several routes that can be climbed as 2 pitches, but this is usually only to mitigate rope drag, not because of height. 

Creed Archibald · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 1,016

There is a 3 or 4 pitch bolted route on the Buffalo National Scenic River that I stumbled on once by accident. I climbed it, with some french freeing. It was hard. There is no online beta that I've ever found. 

Anonymous · · Unknown Hometown · Joined unknown · Points: 0
Creed A wrote:

There is a 3 or 4 pitch bolted route on the Buffalo National Scenic River that I stumbled on once by accident. I climbed it, with some french freeing. It was hard. There is no online beta that I've ever found. 

Hmmm.. Any info on it? Sounds sketchy, because most I have seen around the buffalo is a choss pile. Is it bolted?

JD Borgeson · · Little Rock, AR · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 2,064

Grand traverse is an adventure-y route but it's definitely not a choss pile.  it's a classic and I personally love it for it's uniqueness.  I know of a few great multipitches in Arkansas, but if you can't enjoy the grand traverse, you aren't going to enjoy any of them.

Scott D · · Tucson · Joined May 2017 · Points: 0

There is the Grand Traverse as mentioned above, there is some multipitch at Painter's Bluff, there is a route at HCR, Fireworks in February, that while not a true multipitch climb does have anchors halfway up and can be used to practice multipitch and finally there is on route at Sam's Throne that is a 3 pitch trad adventure route that starts at the back of a cave and climbs out and to the top of the bluffline,  I cannot remember it's name off the top of my head, but is in Cole Fennel's second Arkansas book. That is about it, but our singlepitch is superb! 

Anonymous · · Unknown Hometown · Joined unknown · Points: 0

Thanks guys. I'm going to have to do the grand traverse now, I read about it in the guidebook and it seems fun.

JD Borgeson · · Little Rock, AR · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 2,064

the climbing at painters bluff is off limits now unless you purchase a hunting lease from the new property owners.  there is way more than just one multipitch route at sams throne.  not tall, but steepness forces extra belays.

Jake Gluck · · AZ · Joined Dec 2014 · Points: 119

At Sam's Throne there is Darkness at Noon. It starts with a splitter in the back of a cave, then you traverse out the cave on a ledge, then you climb straight up after exiting said cave. 

https://www.mountainproject.com/v/darkness-at-noon/112124749

Will Haden · · Colorado Springs, CO · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 90

^^^ I have only done the first pitch, but it's great and the rest of the route looks fun. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Midwest
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