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La Sportiva Skwama or Otaki

Original Post
Climbing Forfun · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 0

Hello! I started climbing about 5 months ago and am looking for my second pair of climbing shoes, hopefully something a little more downturned for bouldering. I am currently climbing V5s indoors. My first shoe was the 5.10 Anasazi, and am looking at the La Sportiva women's Otaki or the Skwamas. Any suggestions?? Thank you!!

Doug Chism · · Arlington VA · Joined Jul 2017 · Points: 45

If you are only bouldering and climbing inside the Skwama is probably the ticket since it is softer and has all that toe rubber.

Climbing Forfun · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 0

Great, Thank you!! Do you know how many sizes are recommended to downsize? I read that the shoe runs fairly large. 

that guy named seb · · Britland · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 236
Climbing Forfun wrote:

Great, Thank you!! Do you know how many sizes are recommended to downsize? I read that the shoe runs fairly large. 

entirely up to you, you really need to know how lasportiva fit you to make any real call on sizing, i go down 4-4.5 sizes from my street shoe.

Eric Tomaselli · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2017 · Points: 0

I have both and they are both quality shoes, you can't go wrong with either one, I go down about 3 sizes (Eur). 

Nick Drake · · Kent, WA · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 651
that guy named seb wrote:

entirely up to you, you really need to know how lasportiva fit you to make any real call on sizing, i go down 4-4.5 sizes from my street shoe.

4-4.5 euro down from street, have you ever measured your foot in CM to see how far down it is from actual length? 

https://www.leftlanesports.com/popup_shoesize.htm

I'd be interested to see if the brand of street shoes you buy just runs differently. Personally I have a 26.5cm foot and am a 39.5 in the skwama for what starts as very tight performance fit. I don't think that I could pull on a 39 without putting plastic bags over my foot and potentially tearing the heel loop pull tabs off the shoe. 

After their first resole that size in the skwama is a reasonably comfortable fit for longer 30 meter pitches. 

that guy named seb · · Britland · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 236
Nick Drake wrote:

4-4.5 euro down from street, have you ever measured your foot in CM to see how far down it is from actual length? 

https://www.leftlanesports.com/popup_shoesize.htm

I'd be interested to see if the brand of street shoes you buy just runs differently. Personally I have a 26.5cm foot and am a 39.5 in the skwama for what starts as very tight performance fit. I don't think that I could pull on a 39 without putting plastic bags over my foot and potentially tearing the heel loop pull tabs off the shoe. 

After their first resole that size in the skwama is a reasonably comfortable fit for longer 30 meter pitches. 

4.5-4 UK sizing

Lasportiva speedster and miura vs-5.5

Lasportiva hypermid boot-10

Ellis L · · Truckee · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 156

I am now on my 2nd resole on a pair of Otaki's and they are still phenomenal shoes. I've worn them bouldering but I think they really shine at techy sport climbing. I feel like i can toe in with a bit more power than my Muira laces, and still edge all day on nubs and dimes, with comfort. Sportiva Trango boot - 42, Sportiva trail runner - 42, Muira lace - 38.5, Otaki - 39

Climbing Forfun · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 0

Thank you everyone, appreciate the help!! Now I just need to find the shoe, they are hard to come by online I've realized. Thanks again!

that guy named seb · · Britland · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 236
Climbing Forfun wrote:

Hey Everyone! So unfortunately I couldn't get the Skwamas in a size that really fit my foot (limited in-stock quantity). Does anyone have reviews/input of the Five Ten Hiangles? Thank you!

They are only any good if five ten fit your feet, useless for me no matter what the size.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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