I'm hoping to climb either Mt. Olympus or Glacier peak the second weekend of september with two friends. I have some experience on glaciers and know basic crevasse rescue techniques but my friends are fairly inexperienced. Wondering if anyone has information on the current conditions of these mountains, and whether they are likely to still be in decent shape in two weeks. Olympus is our goal but Glacier would be a backup if Olympus conditions are out. Also curious about recommended routes for glacier.
I can't speak for Olympus, but glacier I would imagine would stay in shape. I came from the N. Fork of the Sauk river, and climbed the cool glacier. There were no required crevasse crossings, so I would think this route would stay open into late season.
If you haven't already, contact Olympic NP and see what they know about Olympus. My guess it they will know a lot... about recent conditions, at least. The Blue Glacier is big but not steep, so open cracks blocking the route is the issue.
Glacier has a number of moderate routes, the easiest being the South Cleaver, which I believe does not require crossing any glaciers. But this time of year it would be a long hike up a dirty ridge of pumice, not very aesthetic. Obviously, early season (June/July) is the preferred season for most volcano and big glacier routes. Good luck!
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