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Targeted finger training

Original Post
Ben Williams · · Van · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 40

Last summer I decided it was a good idea to change things up and get rid of some finger tips, since then I decided I needed a challenge so I picked up climbing. 

I feel like I'm progressing well, in the gym I can typically make it up .11- on 2nd or 3rd attempt. But when I get outside I'm finding a lot more situations where due to finger lengths I'm at a disadvantage. For example mono pockets, or two finger pockets, and slopers. I've been realising more and more that I'm still trying to favour my two dominant (now shorter fingers) when I think it would be advantageous to start using ring and maybe pinky fingers more. 

If anyone has suggestions for a targeted exercise for these two fingers to build strength I'd love to hear them! 

Lena chita · · OH · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 1,667

Hangboard would be the obvious way to build finger strength. Pick up a hangboard with 2-3 finger pockets and a largish sloper. There are a lot of protocols out there, for max hangs, or for repeaters, search "hangboard training".

Since you are starting with training the fingers that are normally much weaker than Index/Middle, you need to have a pulley setup so you can subtract weight, to start. And be careful with it, a year of climbing is a relatively short time in terms of tendon strength, you don't want to overdo it and blow a ring finger pulley.

It looks like you still have the ability to use the index/middle fingers, too, even though they are shorter, so on deeper pockets you could also do Index/middle, Index-middle-ring, and middle-ring. If you are going to do a hangboard training, you might as well pick up several hold combinations...

evan h · · Longmont, CO · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 360

You've been climbing a year, so you probably think finger strength is a limiting factor (and you're right!), but at this point getting lots of mileage and learning to take weight off those weak fingers will net way better return on investment. I love a hangboard, but don't rush into getting stronger when you have so much opportunity to get better.

grog m · · Saltlakecity · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 70

Hangboarding would be good for finger strength. But I agree with Evan. Just gets tons of miles under your belt and really develop footwork and technique. 

Ryan Hamilton · · Orem · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 5

I'm going to +1 million what was said above. So much in climbing is feet. We focus on fingers because that's where we feel week. But, if you can get good with feet and technique you'll take a LOT of weight off your fingers. I definitely think a hangboard would be helpful. But if you've only been climbing for a year I wouldn't push it on the hangboard. Tendons take a lot longer to build up than muscle. Maybe start to add in hangboard this winter when you're training. Until then just climb. focus on good footwork and not just muscling up routes. You'll improve so much faster that way. 

Ben Williams · · Van · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 40

Thanks guys for the input. Everything mentioned makes perfect sense. I guess without consciously thinking it, I was hoping for an "easier" way to progress using strength as opposed to focusing on technique. Ive definitely been told that tendons take much longer than muscle so I think you guys are probably spot on with your idea to focus in more on foot work and build finger strength over a longer time period.

To shift a little bit, a bit more background on my climbing, I started on ice in January, shifted to rock this past April. Since April I climb 5-6 days a week, half gym and half outside. I feel I've progressed quite well over the past few months, beginning at struggling up a .9 and now onsighting most .10s in the gym.

Ive been training in the gym the past 2-3 months with the following routine - 30mins traversing the wall followed by several bouldering problems starting at v0 and working to my limit. Following this I'll work about 3-5 .10s. In my opinion this has worked out very well in developing both technique and strength. (The traversing I feel has done wonders on progressing my footwork_

Now my dilemma is, I've found that most of the .11 climbs in the local gym are very "finger heavy" almost like campusing and lacking in the feet department. In you opinion could I just not be "ready" for these style of climbs? I'm not trying to push my physical limits as injury would suck... So maybe I would be best off holding on progressing grades and focus on as you guys said technique, and then also matching my lead abilities to my TR limit.

Sorry, I probably wrote more than needed, but writing it all out at least helped me think about it a bit more - all opinions welcome

evan h · · Longmont, CO · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 360

There's a very real possibility that your gym setting sucks, but there's also the possibility that you haven't built the movement skills to make those problems or routes go without big moves. I can't really say. Is the gym your primary focus? How about routes on rock? My advice is to look at the long game. I went too hard too fast early in my climbing life and popped a tendon. Trust me, it's not worth it!

Pnelson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 635

Yeah, I know that the common wisdom may be changing, but for the most part hangboarding is for >5.12a redpointers.

grog m · · Saltlakecity · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 70

To add to Pnelson's comment - "hangboarding is for > 5.12 redpointers". I want to qualify and say that hangboarding results will be most effective for 5.12 climbers. Just be careful if you are going to hangboard...muscles grow much faster than tendons and ligaments. Therefore you might feel strong enough to do something but then you will injure a ligament/tendon. It happens to a lot of people...dont let it happen to you. 

B-Slim · · San Jose · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 105

I think Bouldering is the way to go to gain strenght and proper footwork techiniques, also agree with previous posts, hangboard and campusing are great tools for V5/5.11+ On-sight climbers.  From the picture you posted i see you have tapping gloves so assuming your goal is crack/trad climbing, thus improving/learning proper hand/finger jaming or OW skillis  will yeild with way better result, in fact that is the most important item for the 5.10/5.11 range trad climber. 

5.samadhi Süñyātá · · asheville · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 40

But yes, you are correct, finger strength/forearm strength is the single biggest limiting factor in climbing. "If you cannot do the move, then there is nothing to endure" - Yaniro

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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