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Question about Ten Sleep "sport anchors"

Original Post
Mark E Dixon · · Possunt, nec posse videntur · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 974

Had a great trip to 10S and can understand why it is so well liked.

But ran across anchor setups I didn't understand- they consisted of one (usually large) open shut and one chain.

So you still needed to untie to thread, making the open shut kind of useless.

Were there carabiners on the chains at one time? Presumably stolen or just plain removed as too grooved?

If so, I'll bring some captive steel biners on my next trip and replace the missing gear as I try to tick off the classics.

Super job of development up there, really hats off!

nathankutcher · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 1

Captive biners are good, but hard to replace once they wear. At the Red even steel wears out faster than you would think. I'm not sure how much of an issue that is at Tensleep, but a lot of the cliff bases seem like sandboxes to me.

Mark E Dixon · · Possunt, nec posse videntur · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 974
nathankutcher wrote:

Captive biners are good, but hard to replace once they wear. 

The Trangos just need a pair of pliers to remove the pin.

Mussys might be a better answer. Although then they might hang lower than the open shuts. 

No perfect answer. 

Guy Keesee · · Moorpark, CA · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 349
Mark E Dixon · · Possunt, nec posse videntur · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 974

I'm pretty sure having the last climber lower is OK at Tensleep. 

I am going to donate to the Bighorn Climbing Coalition to cover any wear and tear I caused, however.

This was our first climbing road trip in many years, so take my opinion with a grain of salt, but I thought 10S was great and very much worth driving 1200 miles. 

The season is a little weird, as is the daily schedule, but really fun routes, lots of them, pleasant environment, just a wonderful place. 

If you come through Boulder, let's climb.

Petsfed 00 · · Snohomish, WA · Joined Mar 2002 · Points: 989

I noticed that on a lot of easier routes. I think it is a lot of visiting folks unused to good sport anchors just lifting the crabs Willy-nilly.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Wyoming, Montana, Dakotas
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