Sand bag in the Tetons?

They've really had to stack 'em up high with the runoff and all, do the rangers a favor and haul a few to the saddle if you're going.

Well played Nathan!  Well played.   

If you are used to climbing in those areas for the most part probably the only issue is time on routes. I.e. Route finding difficulty, including get to and  finding the start.

I didn't climb the lower exum but the upper exum felt true to the grade, as did the other routes we did in the area. Then again I learned to climb in Jtree so that's sort of my baseline. The rock there is a bit more featured though and differs from the style you would find in Jtree or Tahquitz.

The year of the FA (and a lot of times who put up the route), will tell you a lot about what kind and difficulty of the climbing to expect. The Tetons tend to be chossy so you'll get nice compct sections interspersed with large sections of choss wrangling. Like others have said, route-finding will be the biggest hurdle and moving efficiently over easy terrain will go a long way into enjoying your time in the Tetons.

Skye Swoboda-Colberg wrote:

The geology of the Tetons is unique compared to other areas. Teton granite is some of the oldest granite in the state, clocking at over 2 Billion years of age. That being said, it was not uplifted and exposed by faulting activity until a few hundred million years ago. This provides the Teton paradox, the range is both one of the oldest as well as newest rock formations in the state. With regard to choss, Jackson Hole ski resort received almost 600 inches of snow this winter, the alpine nature that characterizes the range involves freeze/thaw cycles which destabalize the rock. Just look at the tremendous scree fields along the bases of the peaks. Well travelled routes such as the Exum ridge or Owen spalding are going to be cleaned up, but there is always potential for loose rock.

Fascinating!  I am excited.  I am accustom to a mixture of qualities in granite around SoCal, Tahquitz and Joshua Tree are great, Holcomb and Alabama Hills are ok.  All I appreciate more than volcanic or conglomerates in my area, and more than the local sandstone.

That chimney is 5.6. 

Climbed the East Ridge of Disappointment last year which goes 5.6 at the crux sections. I felt like it was pretty accurate, but the quality of that granite made it feel so much easier than what I'm used to at my local crags. It's all going to be subjective, but it's also all going to be awesome.

Jaren Watson wrote:

I think most climbers feel the Black Face is solid 5.7. I'm climbing it in two weeks, so I guess I'll find out if it's sandbagged. I felt the upper Exum was super mellow 5.5.

I might see you out there at that time!  I have permits for 4 nights in the back country, 2 nigthts at moraine and 2 night at lower saddle.  I'm thinking of splitting the ridge into two seperate days of climbing.  Is that stupid?  Hike up to the high camp, climb the lower exum ridge one day, top out at Wall St and head back to camp and then climb the upper exum the following day.  If there is time after that do Middle Teton or Irene's Arete and then head off the mountain.  I've never been to the Tetons.  Is that a good or bad plan?  I'm aware that many people could link the lower and upper exum into a big day, but we are looking to enjoy the 4 nights booked instead of pushing an 18 hour car to car climb.

Skye Swoboda-Colberg wrote:

Yep, its all relative. The Tetons are a bombing range compared to the unbroken Vedauwoo granite I learned to climb on.

There are still a few loose rocks and flakes in Vedauwoo, but by and large it is one of the most solid areas I have ever climbed at.  By comparison just about anything is chossy.  But the Tetons compared to the overall range of climbing areas are generally quite solid.

Gee Double wrote:

There is no "Upper Exum" only Exum. The direct is Durance Direct...! $ Both full stars *** 

There is clearly a route called "UPPER EXUM RIDGE" (5.5) and "LOWER EXUM RIDGE" (5.7).  

Click the hyperlinks to review.

The only "Durrance" route I've ever heard of, while in Wyoming, is not near Grand Teton National Park, but rather on Devil's Tower.

I feel like most Teton ratings are accurate when the route is in perfect condition mid summer, otherwise things can get harder quick. The route approaches and actual route finding can be some of the tricker parts of the climb. Here are my thoughts on some of the routes I have done in GTNP...

East Ridge of Teewinot - (4th class) If you get off route it can turn quickly into 5th ( lots of accidents happen here)

Southeast on the Middle (3rd class) One of the easier routes to get a amazing summit. 

Owen Spalding (5.4) Which can feel like 5.5 when its full of ice. 

Upper Exum (5.5) Straightforward climbing 

Lower Exum (5.7+) Steep with a few pitches of sustained 5.7. Harder with snow on the route at the belays and ledges. 

North Ridge (5.8-) At times felt easier than the lower exum. Again condition dependent. 

Ford/Chevy/Settiner (WI2/3 M2 Grade III) Early in the winter it can be more mixed and less ice. Feels more like a grade III than II. 

Middle Teton Glaicer Route (Mod Snow) Fat and easy to climb in spring. 

NW on the South Teton ( 3 rd class)  Fairly easy from the saddle between south and middle 

East Ridge of Cloudvile Dome ( Easy 5th class) Only a few moves

The Grand Traverse (5.8+) -Long, lots of downclimbing

Catheridral Traverse (5.8) -More manageable of a traverse. 

Gee Double wrote:

There is no "Upper Exum" only Exum. The direct is Durance Direct...! $ Both full stars ***

Forever Outside wrote:
There is clearly a route called "UPPER EXUM RIDGE" (5.5) and "LOWER EXUM RIDGE" (5.7).
The only "Durrance" route I've ever heard of, while in Wyoming, is not near Grand Teton National Park, but rather on Devil's Tower.

Maybe what Gee Double means is that the route now known as the Lower Exum was first climbed by Jack Durrance (and Kenneth Henderson), in 1936. But it's not known as the "Durrance" route.

Skye Swoboda-Colberg wrote:

Maybe you are thinking of the Durrance Ridge on Symmetry Spire? It's a classic 5.7 test piece. Don't you know your history? Did you bother to check ANY of the links? Until you back your statement up with some evidence/references, I am going to assume you don't know what you're talking about. Prove me wrong, or stop providing misinformation.

Wow.  Who pissed in your cheerios?

George Perkins wrote:

I felt Lower Exum was hard for the grade (5.6 in 50 classics, modern 5.7), and upper Exum was soft for the grade (5.4/5.5). IMO Upper Exum was easier and less sustained than the 3rd Flatiron (5.4).

I agree. I felt like the lower was real rock climbing, but we simul-ed the upper and spent the whole time wondering when the real climbing was going to start. I would have been very disappointed if I had gone all the way up there with ropes and stuff just to climb the upper.

I havn't done too much in the tetons, but what I do know is that the grades tend to feel sandbagged only because of conditions.  For example, the owen spalding is a 5.4 in perfect conditions, but if owen's chimney is all iced up, then it could feel like 5.6+

Mike Womack wrote:

I havn't done too much in the tetons, but what I do know is that the grades tend to feel sandbagged only because of conditions.  For example, the owen spalding is a 5.4 in perfect conditions, but if owen's chimney is all iced up, then it could feel like 5.6+

5.6c

DavisMeschke Guillotine wrote:

5.6c

haha! I now realize how dumb that sounded.  That was meant to mean 5.6 or more.. haha

Mike Womack wrote:

haha! I now realize how dumb that sounded.  That was meant to mean 5.6 or more.. haha

It is ridiculously difficult if covered in ice and snow...

Skye Swoboda-Colberg wrote:

Maybe you are thinking of the Durrance Ridge on Symmetry Spire? It's a classic 5.7 test piece. Don't you know your history? Did you bother to check ANY of the links? Until you back your statement up with some evidence/references, I am going to assume you don't know what you're talking about. Prove me wrong, or stop providing misinformation.

I'm guessin' gee dub is fully aware of his history...ha ha...