Bear creek spire approach and descent conditions

Anybody been out that way this summer yet.

Did you hear anything or find any details? We've got our eye on this peak too!

a friend of mine just climbed it this weekend.  Here is what he had to say.  

"Successful Summit of Bear Creek Spire 13,720' via the North Arete (5.8, III, 10 pitches) involving a day approach, a pre-dawn start, crampon/ice axe glacier crossing and then some sweet alpine rock deep in the Eastern Sierra"

I did a quick hike there in little lakes valley 2 weeks ago, still way much snow back there, even saw two skiers on their way to ski from it.

I'm planning to go this weekend to climb it, but now I'm concerned about smoke from the detwiler.

Thanks for the info. Let us know beantown!

I took someone up there yesterday.  Zero smell of smoke.  We could see it in the distance but no local presence.  Snow from Dade Lake to the base.  Overnight freeze, crampons recommended.  Travel to the base and descent is fast.   If competent alpine experience poles are adequate with crampons for the descent (and gaiters as it will be mush), if not much experience, I recommend a light ax.  Zero snow on the route of course.  Full sun from sun up until noon this time of year.  The camp site at Dade is free of snow, snow and ice floating in the lake. Mosquitoes at camp site average  On the trail to and fro worse than normal.  Good Luck.

Went out last Tuesday and did the north Arete, car to car in 14 hours.  Hiking at 6 am, About 2 miles of the approach is on snow.  Deep suncupped hard pack early, brought an ice axe and used crampons for the steeper section, enjoyed some glissading on the descent.  Toms place, and hot springs to finish the day.  Great views, the sierras are looking great right now with all the snow.  Plenty of beautiful Alpine lakes, you'll loose count.  Also the mosquitos are a great motivator if you're hiking out in the early evening.

Did the climb today Sunday the 23rd.  Camped at dade sat night and Saw lots of parties coming down.  Nobody on the climb Sunday.  We started hiking at 5am, crampons were necessary.   We left them at the bottom and descended the snow slope past the normal decent gully.  Snow was mush but steep.  Boot skiing is fun!

Anyone more recent? Looking at oct 7 depending on conditions. Also confused if ulrichs route is the west side descent or also a way up? Some reports seem to confuse ulrichs route and the northeast ridge. Might add my son to trip but if so I want the easiest route 

I did Ulrich's August 24th. I imagine if the weather stays good conditions might dry out and be somewhat similar to when I did it, which means some couloirs and snowy ridges to deal with, but mostly talus. 

You can go up Ulrich's. I thought it made a nice day hike, but depending on your son's skill level it may or may not be feasible. There is around 50 feet of 4th class at the top that is fairly easy, but a little exposed. A fall in a few places would be bad. Including the summit block 5.6 move, which felt easier to me but would result in serious injury/death. 

The problem I ran into was that I did not feel comfortable going up cox col to Ulrich's without an ice axe (I cut steps up the first section with a rock.) But then I climbed left onto some 4th and easy 5th. So I would take that into account. The NE ridge I've heard is pretty hard and scary for "easy 5th." 

Any skiing still up there?

The weather looks great for the next 14 days, warming way up. 

We all rock climb. He can easily climb 5.6 just didn't realize ulrichs was so exposed. I just figured if we went that route we could always just turn around. So many great summits in that area but everything looks to be harder than this.  

@beantown beautiful shot! But wow the snow it got!  Whitney had very little this weekend but the northern location made a big difference I guess.

We may just have to hike in and see what we think. He could always stay at camp also.

Jennifer, if you go, would really appreciate it if you report back on conditions!