Best sport areas in Yosemite

King Tut wrote:

I cannot think of one 5.8 slab in Yosemite that is a 5.8 sport climb. 

Boltway at Stately Pleasure. 

Mockery at Five and Dime. 

Makaylas at Pat and Jack (and nearby routes)

King Tut wrote:

Sport climbs start at about 5.10 I would say up at the East Cottage Dome.

Or maybe that route Shagadelic over on Medlicott. Dunno if that is really "sport" bolted but I think those guys were generous.

What about the first pitch (10a) of Pretty In Pinkpoint (12a), also on Medlicott?

aaron hope wrote:

Boltway at Stately Pleasure. 

Mockery at Five and Dime. 

Makaylas at Pat and Jack (and nearby routes)

1. Should be Chopped as it is adding bolts to an established climb.

2/3. New routes I have never heard of, nor will again. Are they slabs or steep(ish) face?

:P

Marc801 C wrote:

What about the first pitch (10a) of Pretty In Pinkpoint (12a), also on Medlicott?

Maybe...like I said....5.10.

But honestly, if the OP is a gymbie looking to get a taste of well-bolted Yosemite go to East Cottage Dome. If that or South Crack is not your speed, get back in the gym is my rec.

(sorry, feeling the curmudgeon this am).

Dan McDevitt has a couple dozen single pitch 5.11 routes around the base of Fifi Buttress now. All well bolted and set up for 70m ropes (half rope rappel). 

Yosemite Locals - someone should make a topo to that area and post it up!

Woot!

Erik

RockclimbYosemite.com - Yosemitebigwall.com

King Tut wrote:

1. Should be Chopped as it is adding bolts to an established climb.

So you would like to chop a well established moderate route that sees hundreds of happy ascents per year for one that sees one or fewer per year (and they only overlap for the first dozen feet or so)?

King Tut wrote:If ... South Crack is not your speed, get back in the gym is my rec.

I've seen leaders have no problems on the crack pitches or the 5.8 crux step across only to melt down on the 5.7 friction traverse after the crack ends. 

Out of curiosity and off topic, was the sheared bolt stud on that pitch ever replaced with a real bolt? The last time I did the route was over 25 years ago.

aaron hope wrote:

So you would like to chop a well established moderate route that sees hundreds of happy ascents per year for one that sees one or fewer per year (and they only overlap for the first dozen feet or so)?

Yes, I most certainly would. There are moderate routes to the right, left and anywhere you want to climb on that slab. Eunuch was put up in 1971 by Kamps and Beck in frickin' hiking boots. There is zero justification for retro bolting their route.

The first 4 bolts of "ChickenBoltWay" are reportedly placed on Eunuch. They should be removed.

Seems I may have met Marty years ago. Nice guy, probably didn't know where Eunuch went.

There are 10,000 slabs just like it to be done elsewhere in CA. This idea that older routes in Tuolumne should be comfortized for convenience is garbage.

I am not kidding either there are 10,000 slabs still unclimbed in CA. Get off your ass and go make one the way you want and I will sing your praises.

Marc801 C wrote:

I've seen leaders have no problems on the crack pitches or the 5.8 crux step across only to melt down on the 5.7 friction traverse after the crack ends. 

Out of curiosity and off topic, was the sheared bolt stud on that pitch ever replaced with a real bolt? The last time I did the route was over 25 years ago.

No idea, last time I did it was probably 1984 lol. I always just went straight up.

The slabs at the top of South Crack or above Hermaphrodite Flake are a right of passage for the Domes of Tuolumne.

caughtinside wrote:

Guys have been bleating about the Eunuch for... 20 years now? zzzzz....

Harumpf!!!

:P

The Shultz's Ridge area mentioned up-thread seems to fit the criteria of the OP who will apparently be visiting Yosemite Valley for the first time (and has never climbed "trad" yet.) The routes are highly concentrated,  short approaches, good temps in October,  shade/sun, etc. Most of the "trad" climbing on the single pitch lines requires a few straight-forward gear placements supplemented by bolts.

While "Second Thoughts" pictured above is a "partially bolted" 5.10a trad climb, it is the area warm-up surrounded by at least 9 fully bolted sport routes. It's anchor is very close (6 feet left) to "Just Do Me" anchor (5.10d.) "Blue Suede Shoes" 5.10c sport is just left and very fun... Lots of 5.11 + sport routes within a two minute walk.

The comments section for "Second Thoughts" and for this area are all over the map in terms of opinions. "Moratorium" 11b is the consensus classic 4 pitch trad climb nearby and a very different style of climbing than pictured above. Personally I found several worthwhile "rest day" sport/mixed diversions here. The style of bolting and rock quality I experienced is decidedly different IMO than the climbs I've tried at the Chapel Wall and Pat and Jack Pinnacle areas, which were previously established.

Erik Sloan wrote:

Isn't this something guide book authors usually do for themselves?

Fredrik Ehne wrote:

Now I'm a dirty foreigner, but 5.8 bolted slab in Yosemite counts as sport climbing right? Start there 

Also be sure to redpoint a few routes in the gym before you go to Yosemite.  

My comment was not to be taken seriously, I was trying to be mean to the op since he climbs harder in the gym after a few months than I do after a couple of years.

Fredrik Ehne wrote:

My comment was not to be taken seriously, I was trying to be mean to the op since he climbs harder in the gym after a few months than I do after a couple of years.

No worries Fredrik. Please come over the weather in CA is  fantastic in summer.