Best Climbing/Alpine Backpack?

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Oh there is a lot to be said on this topic.  I would go to the Cold Thistle blog run by Dane and read into alpine pack sizing first to get a feel of what to look for when trying them on.

Recommendations: it sounds like despite having a long torso you are using packs too big.  I don't have a long torso and I can get away with using the Wild Things Guide pack and the Arc'Teryx FL series packs. You can get the Guide pack for under $200, I got mine for free because they made a mistake on my order.  The Arc'Teryx FLs you can snag when they do a seasonal clearance.  Patagonia packs are ok, but I wouldn't use them when I have alternatives like I mentioned.

I can't stand the Black Diamond packs, I sized to a size Small in them but they are too snug for me, so for packs I look for an 18" back despite being an alleged 17.5".  Also avoid alpine packs that look like they carry heavy loads comfortably (Mountain Hardwear, Gregory), they defeat the purpose of an alpine pack, and you'll hate them when climbing in them.

You are going to be hard pressed in finding an alpine pack that is under $200 and is bomber to survive multiple chimneys in abrasive conditions.  You also can try Cold Cold World and see if you can get a custom Ozone.  The guy that runs CCW is pretty reasonable price-wise for what he offers.

The Arcteryx Alpha FL 30L is the best alpine pack I have ever owned. I use it primarily for long ice/alpine routes. Its big enough for me to get everything i need in it for an overnight climb, but small enough so that I only take the essential items. It is made out of bomber material. I threw it down a mountain it is still going strong. I cant say enough good things about it. 

I love the Mammut Trion Pro. The zip back is super useful and it can carry weight very nicely. 

From your description, you may like the BD packs. I find the too slender for my robustly sexy broad shoulders. 

I have FL30 and I wish it was hydration compatible and side compression straps        

Any backpack like FL30, but is hydration compatible, has side compression, and isn't Cilogear. I want to try it on me before buying, so sadly, Cilogear is out.

The closest I could find was Ortovox Trad 35, except it doesn't expand (I like my backpack to be really small when I'm climbing and really big during approach) or isn't as burly (I'm assuming N400-AC mean 400 denier?)

Za ch wrote:

I have FL30 and I wish it was hydration compatible and side compression straps        

   

Any backpack like FL30, but is hydration compatible, has side compression, and isn't Cilogear. I want to try it on me before buying, so sadly, Cilogear is out.

The closest I could find was Ortovox Trad 35, except it doesn't expand (I like my backpack to be really small when I'm climbing and really big during approach) or isn't as burly (I'm assuming N400-AC mean 400 denier?)

You can add compression straps and use the bungee on the back of it to cinch it down, making it hydration compatible defeats the who dry bag thing but could easily be done with a Stanley knife.

The BD Cirque bags are amazing. You'll appreciate the skimo features too once you realise that skiing is so much better than climbing.

The fabric seems to be quite tough, mine has managed to look as new after heavy use this winter. 

I also like Arc'teryx packs. I've tried Osprey, Black Diamond, Mammut and a few other brands but I always go back to Arc'teryx for the outstanding quality. I have the Altra 35 day pack, Altra 65 multi-day pack, and Miura 45 crag pack. 

Just remember that you get what you pay for. These packs are easily $200+ but that translates to comfort and efficiency during the long hours you will be wearing it. In my opinion a pack is a critical piece of gear that you can't afford to cut corners or buy cheap. Just my $0.02

I like the patagonia linked pack for actual climbing.  You can fit 2 liters of water + shoes + extra layers + food.  It has actual haul loops as well and is low profile.  When I can swing it, I approach with a 30 - 35 liter pack, stash it near the base and climb with a smaller one.

I wish Alpha FL30 had side attachment points  like FL45 or better yet, buckles with detachable straps.

Also, dedicated sleeve for foam pad, so I can either remove it or put a hydration bladder.

These 2 things will make Alpha FL30 the perfect climbing backpack for me.

I guess I'm basically describing Cilogear 30L worksack.

I know you don't want to spend more than $200, but you can get a custom pack built from scratch for around $300.

Alpine Luddites out of Ouray, Colorado.  Hand made in 'merica, but so is CiloGear and Cold Cold World.  It appears Alpine Luddites allows you to customize your pack 10x more than either CiloGear or Cold Cold World does. Hope this helps!

Hi Kat,

I'm the owner of Alpine Luddites. I custom fit packs to female climbers regularly. On my packs we can custom fit the harness length(back length), belt size, Shoulder Strap Width, length and spacing.  For climbing with a harness on I sometimes either fit the pack longer, so it doesn't catch on the top edge of your harness, as harnesses become thinner this less of an issue, or cut them shorter so the ride above your harness. shorter packs don't hike as well. This is all included in the price of any of my packs.

 I can also build a pack for you out of Ballistics nylon, which is ideal for the seirras. While Dyneema fabrics are tough and strong for their weight, Ballistics and Cordura fabrics are much more durable, esspecially for lots of alpine rock use. They also save you some money as they cost less.

Feel free to contact me directly if you want more specifics.

JC