Easiest overhanging sport route in CO?

Heya folks,

I'm leading 10a and sometimes 10b in the gym, including on our overhanging walls, but outside, I get freaked out and can only psych myself up to lead 7s and maybe the odd 8 here and there. However, unfortunately, 6s/7s/8s always seem to be slabby -- or vertical at best. If any exist, I'd love to get some suggestions for slightly overhanging sport routes that have big, juggy holds that I can try with the confidence of a clean fall. Do routes like this exist in CO at or below 10a?

I know that's kinda specific, but thanks in advance for any suggestions!

Abbie, I think we may have met through Will E! I can think of a few slightly overhanging routes with clean falls (low 5.10s). If you're looking for a soft catch on a safe route Cristina and I would be happy help you out. -Christian Q

Hey Christian, we did! We should definitely climb together soon - are you guys back from your van-cation? (We might have exchanged numbers, but if not, let's connect on FB.)

We're back. I'll FB message ya!

Barney at Shelf, 9++ and it's got a rest on a death flake.  sorry I can't join in the MP reunion and be part of the crowd :(

AndyMac wrote:

Barney at Shelf, 9++ and it's got a rest on a death flake.  sorry I can't join in the MP reunion and be part of the crowd :(

No worries - I appreciate your suggestion! Maybe we'll run into each other at Shelf someday :)

As much as I hate to read junk threads about people getting scared on sport climbs when they try going outside (we all get scared, but some people actually love the rush and hate to see the gym gumbies taking up space at the beloved crags that don't appreciate the consequence as much. Please send that shit, or fall trying. Nothing should come easily. )

https://www.mountainproject.com/v/namaste-wall/110382881 Some of the most amazing sandstone sport climbing I've ever done. Actually pretty easy for the grades. Nothing technical, or physically difficult moves. Just very long. Endurance climbing on strung out overhang. Even with hard catches, your toes will but lightly tap the wall. Jug hauls, and no-hands rests. If you hang on a bolt because you're afraid of your goody two shoes self taking a little whipper on these, go back to the gym. 

Paul Hutton wrote:

https://www.mountainproject.com/v/namaste-wall/110382881 Some of the most amazing sandstone sport climbing I've ever done. Actually pretty easy for the grades. Nothing technical, or physically difficult moves. Just very long. Endurance climbing on strung out overhang. Even with hard catches, your toes will but lightly tap the wall. Jug hauls, and no-hands rests. If you hang on a bolt because you're afraid of your goody two shoes self taking a little whipper on these, go back to the gym. 

Not in Colorado.

Check out these if you haven't already.

• https://www.mountainproject.com/v/edges-and-ledges/105870616 (steep after the initial slab)
• https://www.mountainproject.com/v/cgs-naked-fun-time/105756829 (slightly harder than what you asked for, but steep with good falls)
• https://www.mountainproject.com/v/pink-torpedo/106994501 (fun juggy climbing)
• https://www.mountainproject.com/v/double-hung/105764412 (fun and steep)
• https://www.mountainproject.com/v/lazy-day/106147677 (short but steep)

Paul Hutton wrote:

As much as I hate to read junk threads about people getting scared on sport climbs when they try going outside (we all get scared, but some people actually love the rush and hate to see the gym gumbies taking up space at the beloved crags that don't appreciate the consequence as much. Please send that shit, or fall trying. Nothing should come easily. )

https://www.mountainproject.com/v/namaste-wall/110382881 Some of the most amazing sandstone sport climbing I've ever done. Actually pretty easy for the grades. Nothing technical, or physically difficult moves. Just very long. Endurance climbing on strung out overhang. Even with hard catches, your toes will but lightly tap the wall. Jug hauls, and no-hands rests. If you hang on a bolt because you're afraid of your goody two shoes self taking a little whipper on these, go back to the gym. 

Not even remotely helpful.

Paul Hutton wrote:

As much as I hate to read junk threads about people getting scared on sport climbs when they try going outside (we all get scared, but some people actually love the rush and hate to see the gym gumbies taking up space at the beloved crags that don't appreciate the consequence as much. Please send that shit, or fall trying. Nothing should come easily. )

https://www.mountainproject.com/v/namaste-wall/110382881 Some of the most amazing sandstone sport climbing I've ever done. Actually pretty easy for the grades. Nothing technical, or physically difficult moves. Just very long. Endurance climbing on strung out overhang. Even with hard catches, your toes will but lightly tap the wall. Jug hauls, and no-hands rests. If you hang on a bolt because you're afraid of your goody two shoes self taking a little whipper on these, go back to the gym. 

Seems a bit harsh, Paul, but thanks for the suggestion, I guess? Geez.

Rich Liang wrote:

Dr. Strangelove 5.9 at the Kubricks Wall in Rifle. The Right side of this wall is pretty much easy, well bolted, overhanging climbing.

https://www.mountainproject.com/v/kubricks/107235920

Thank you! I've stayed away from Rifle because I've always heard that if you don't climb hard, you won't have any fun there. But it's good to have something in my back pocket to try if I find myself there anytime soon!

Jeff Dillon wrote:

Check out these if you haven't already.

• https://www.mountainproject.com/v/edges-and-ledges/105870616 (steep after the initial slab)
• https://www.mountainproject.com/v/cgs-naked-fun-time/105756829 (slightly harder than what you asked for, but steep with good falls)
• https://www.mountainproject.com/v/pink-torpedo/106994501 (fun juggy climbing)
• https://www.mountainproject.com/v/double-hung/105764412 (fun and steep)
• https://www.mountainproject.com/v/lazy-day/106147677 (short but steep)

Thank you for this great list! Back in February(?), I actually tried to lead Lazy Day, but I couldn't bring myself to move past the second (I think) bolt. Would be a good one to go back and try again! 

Bruce Hildenbrand wrote:

Apparently so! From the comments for this route: "best overhanging 5.9 in Bolder Canyon."

Thank you!

Abbie R wrote:

Seems a bit harsh, Paul, but thanks for the suggestion, I guess? Geez.

 The mountains are harsh, too. Prepare for a beating when you thrust yourself into wild terrain. Expecting everything to be nice isn't realistic. 

Jeff Dillon wrote:

Not even remotely helpful.

 It helps if you leave home and go to where the route you want is sitting and waiting. Sure helped me. 

Paul Hutton wrote:

 The mountains are harsh, too. Prepare for a beating when you thrust yourself into wild terrain.

Wow, you must be a badass

Abbie: there are some really good suggestions on the thread already but I think this route is quite fun (and super convenient to Denver), though it's at the top end of your grade range: https://www.mountainproject.com/v/pretty-woman/106274771

It's mostly mellow to some steep-but-juggy climbing to the anchors. Despite seeing a decent amount of traffic, there are a couple (very well labeled) loose blocks near the start of the overhang. Nothing to be overly concerned about, but keep an eye out when you're up there. Have fun!

Paul Hutton wrote:

 The mountains are harsh, too. Prepare for a beating when you thrust yourself into wild terrain. Expecting everything to be nice isn't realistic. 

right...that's why people ask for suggestions for specific types of terrain that they can handle to gain experience before thrusting themselves into "wild" terrain.  I don't think the harshness of the mountains is particularly relevant to a thread about sport-climbing.  Expecting everything to be nice on a safe sport route seems well within the realm of reality.  I'm sorry we're not all badass like you - maybe there should be a "no noobs allowed" forum subsection that you only gain access to once you tick a certain number of 5.12s, and then you won't need to have your mountainProject experience blighted by threads such as this.

Paul Hutton wrote:

 It helps if you leave home and go to where the route you want is sitting and waiting. Sure helped me. 

Cool story, bro. You realize she has 6,000+ routes within 2 hours of her house, right? You left Pilot Mountain, NC. There is a big difference.

She asked a very specific and legitimate question. You responded with pure douchebaggery, mansplaining, and irrelevant recommendations. Multiple people have now called you out on it. 

Take a hint. Let it go. Learn from it.

Paul is the new NESteve