I practiced my new setup on my 8" wall in the backyard. Most is pretty much the same as the Petzl advice, some is a little new. I'd love any and all feedback on the setups and procedures that seem to work OK during my practice, but which may unintentionally kill me :)
Anchor setup possibilities (all bolt anchors), depending on particulars of situation and whether I'll be belaying anybody normal-style after I climb solo (like my kid):
Setup for normal climbing (on one strand):
Procedure stuff and setup details:
I'm attaching the Microtraxion and Ascension on the rope, engaged, before clipping biners into them, then checking after the first move to be sure that they're capturing, to be double-sure that they're not disabled.
Differences from Petzl include using belay biners on both devices and regular locker on tie-in points for attaching dogbone - Petzl uses quicklinks for all three - and using two shoulder-length slings to keep Microtraxion on my chest
I have an ATC in the "captured" section of the belay biner on the top device (makes for a really easy transition to rappel, extending the rappel nicely).
Tie overhands on bights on climbing strand, below Ascension, occasionally
Climb, climb, climb, get to the anchor...
Go in direct with PAS (Connect Adjust Lanyard, here)
Setting up the rappel from top of route:
Take weight off the rope, hang on PAS
Unlock Ascension, pull up rope through it, lock it again
Unlock Microtraxion and disable it, pull up rope through it, open biner, put two strands through gate, move Microtraxion through loop in ATC, bring ATC up to normal rap position, lock it down
Set up autoblock on biner at on belay loop, cinch ATC and autoblock up, with slack below autoblock, above (still locked) Ascension
Put weight on rappel by lengthening Adjust Connect (it's great for this!), until I'm on rappel.
Remove PAS, rack it
Disable Ascenion, leave it where it is, with rope sliding through
Bailing on the route - assume that we're hanging on the one strand, via the devices
Tie 8 on bight on the unused strand, as high up as I can reach
Anchor PAS into bight, transfer weight onto it, leaving primary strand slack
Disable traxion, pull slack through ascension as above
Set up rappel on ATC, both strands (below bight, obv)
Set up autoblock as before, slowly transfer weight onto rappel as above, remove PAS, leave bight there (next attempt could clear it on the way up or on rap down, if send happens
Any issues with setups or procedures? I think that I've covered everything from various threads here, but want to make sure. Keeping the ATC engaged and using the dogbone to extend the rappel isn't something that I've seen anyone do, it really speeds up the process, and I don't see any safety issues with it.
Thanks,
jg