Double figure 8 (Bunny Ears) for an anchor

*bump* So I've been messing around with bunny ears anchors and almost used one on a 2-bolt anchor the other day.  What stopped me (ended up using a double length sling) was the fact that the anchor was on a rather large (amazing) belay ledge, so I wanted to clove in and walk back to sit at the edge so that I could watch my partner.  It was also nice to then be able to shorten it when I was lead belaying him for the next pitch.  The trouble with bunny ears (and a lot of rope anchors, TBH) seems to be that they're harder to adjust.  What would those of you who use them do in this situation?

I've never found an occasion when the bunny ears were better (or any faster) then clove-hitch based methods.

And the adjustment issue isn't with the bunny ears, it is with the length of the tie-in, as Ted observes.

Ted Pinson wrote:

*bump* So I've been messing around with bunny ears anchors and almost used one on a 2-bolt anchor the other day.  What stopped me (ended up using a double length sling) was the fact that the anchor was on a rather large (amazing) belay ledge, so I wanted to clove in and walk back to sit at the edge so that I could watch my partner.  It was also nice to then be able to shorten it when I was lead belaying him for the next pitch.  The trouble with bunny ears (and a lot of rope anchors, TBH) seems to be that they're harder to adjust.  What would those of you who use them do in this situation?

While I do use the bunny ears frequently, the situation you're describing is probably not one in which I would. If for some reason I did and then wanted a quick method to shorten my tie-in, I'd probably just tie an 8 or overhand on a bight in my tie-in strand. If the knot itself didn't shorten things enough, I'd put a locker on the bight and then clip it off to both loops of the bunny ears (to the "shelf"). Not a very elegant solution, but given that the bunny ears is not the optimal tool for the scenario you're describing, I'd call it improvised error correction anyway. 

Ted,

If you decide to use the rope to build your belay anchor (for whatever reason - personal preference or you have no other material, slings, cordalette, etc.) you can still rig it to allow you to extend your belay away from anchor.

Clove into one of your pro pieces for personal protection (if necessary; you did say you were on a large ledge). Tie your bunny ears knot (or whatever rope anchor you choose), but instead of tying it close to your tie in point, pull out sufficient length of rope that would allow you to walk back from anchor to ledge edge.

After bunny ears attached to pro, place Biner in masterpoint and remove your clove connection and walk, rappel, lower to ledge edge. Tie new masterpoint on this length of rope, re-attach clove connection and belay your 2nd. from point where you can see and talk to him.

Ah, gotcha.  It seems like what I did was probably the simplest approach for this situation, but it's good to know that it would have been possible to adjust had I not had the sling.

Marty C wrote:

you can still rig it to allow you to extend your belay away from the anchor

Or tie it long and use a prussik.

Another advantage of the bunnyears knot in general is that it's easier to untie after being loaded than a normal fig8 on a bight.

Disadvantages of anchor usage include tearing down the anchor ar hanging belays (gotta go in direct to unweight the knot to untie), needing an extra step to escape the belay, and extra rope usage.

That said, I use the rope and bunnyears to anchor when swapping leads 95% of the time. Great when you've used every sling on your rack plus your prussik on the pitch already.

Ted Pinson wrote:

*bump* So I've been messing around with bunny ears anchors and almost used one on a 2-bolt anchor the other day.  What stopped me (ended up using a double length sling) was the fact that the anchor was on a rather large (amazing) belay ledge, so I wanted to clove in and walk back to sit at the edge so that I could watch my partner.  It was also nice to then be able to shorten it when I was lead belaying him for the next pitch.  The trouble with bunny ears (and a lot of rope anchors, TBH) seems to be that they're harder to adjust.  What would those of you who use them do in this situation?

So, doesn't anyone know the munter/mule extension? Never any slack in the line, completely extendable, safe, all that.

Just saying.

^^As an anchor?

Fritz N. wrote:

Or tie it long and use a prussik.

Another advantage of the bunnyears knot in general is that it's easier to untie after being loaded than a normal fig8 on a bight.

Disadvantages of anchor usage include tearing down the anchor ar hanging belays (gotta go in direct to unweight the knot to untie), needing an extra step to escape the belay, and extra rope usage.

That said, I use the rope and bunnyears to anchor when swapping leads 95% of the time. Great when you've used every sling on your rack plus your prussik on the pitch already.

Why would you use your prussik on the pitch?  Desperate extension when you run out of runners?

Ted Pinson wrote:

^^As an anchor?

Why would you use your prussik on the pitch?  Desperate extension when you run out of runners?

Yes to both. Tie in long and prussik up snug to your desired length. Handy on big ledges when you don't want to grind the rope over an edge as you're pulling slack.

Hollowblock prussiks are great runners when you've used all your slings and need just one more extension. Fully rated. Not as much street cred as building a quickdraw out of nut wires, though.

Cool idea!

if you leave yourself enough tail on your bunny eared eight you can tie a double overhand on a bite, and belay off that instead of using the shelf and then I believe loading the knot this way is redundant.

Ted Pinson wrote:

*bump* So I've been messing around with bunny ears anchors and almost used one on a 2-bolt anchor the other day.  What stopped me (ended up using a double length sling) was the fact that the anchor was on a rather large (amazing) belay ledge, so I wanted to clove in and walk back to sit at the edge so that I could watch my partner.  It was also nice to then be able to shorten it when I was lead belaying him for the next pitch.  The trouble with bunny ears (and a lot of rope anchors, TBH) seems to be that they're harder to adjust.  What would those of you who use them do in this situation?

It you want to extend your bunny-eared eight, just tie it with as much tether as you might possibly need. Then "clove in" (with the carabiner on your harness, not the anchor) anywhere you want on the extended tether. In your scenario, this would also allow you to safely move back & forth between your belay stance and the anchor if necessary. IMHO this is one of the big benefits of this and similar type anchors.