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Decent bouldering guidebook for Los Angeles?

Original Post
Anonymous · · Unknown Hometown · Joined unknown · Points: 0

As the title states. I've heard rumors of one being in the works for over two years. During the last year there was a verbal reassurance that Stoney Point was the last section that needed to get done. Now no one knows anything (apparently) and there is still no guidebook worth it's salt for the vast amounts of good bouldering in the hills around there. Anyone have any info? 

jay2718 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2009 · Points: 5

Southern California Bouldering Guide by Craig Fry was always pretty decent. Of course, the newest areas and access info is not in it, and the roads at Jtree were revamped after it was published, but there are many areas, plenty to keep you busy. Certainly, Stony Point is not all that different now as when it was published.

Guy Keesee · · Moorpark, CA · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 349

V0 ....   One is in the works...  I know the people working on it. 

GB making is not easy. 

Anonymous · · Unknown Hometown · Joined unknown · Points: 0
Guy Keesee wrote:

GB making is not easy. 

No kidding. Shouldn't talk about it as if it's finished though, gets the peoples hopes up (not aimed at you, Guy). That's how the situation was described to me a year ago by someone in the know. Comparing the Fry guide to any climbing guidebook made after 2000 (excluding the stoney point guidebook) is apples to oranges. Not even in the same league. The hand drawn topos are often wrong, there have been incredible amounts of development since then, the camera was invented, etc. 

Guy Keesee · · Moorpark, CA · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 349
Mike Womack · · Orcutt, CA · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 2,015

I've also heard from a couple sources that a very inclusive bouldering guide is in the works.  Anybody have any word on a sport climbing in SM updated guide?  The Louie Anderson one is 14 years old now.

Mike Womack · · Orcutt, CA · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 2,015

luke-warm at best.  I've actually recently considered writing an updated SM climbing guide.  I grew up in agoura and have been climbing all throughout the SMs since '08 or so.  

Anonymous · · Unknown Hometown · Joined unknown · Points: 0

Grew up in TO, started well after you but I think we have a similar appreciation for the Santa Monicas. I wrote a hand-written guide to the (shitty) bouldering in the Conejo Valley that I am sure you could get your hands on if you wanted to. There is a lot of potential up by Mystery Science Theater still. Thanks for the work you've done expanding on the bouldering, MW. 

Mike Womack · · Orcutt, CA · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 2,015

Oh ya! The bouldering in the SMs is a hidden gem - especially purple stones and tunnels.  There's probably over 100 more routes to add on MP, too.  But thanks for the appreciation!  

I've only climbed at the conejo mtn. once a long time ago.  Potential for sport or boulder? Is the writer of the SM bouldering guide aware of your contributions?  

Anonymous · · Unknown Hometown · Joined unknown · Points: 0

I don't think so. I ended up giving a few copies to friends and then chucking the rest. It was supplemental to the stuff I already put onto the web on this site, so the info isn't lost per say. I asked a few people at Stoney (who might be involved with the new guidebook) if they wanted to test out the guide/topo and they refused based on the fact that "there isn't any climbing over there." Bummed me out that they wouldn't even look, especially when it's the same rock as Malibu Creek, and double-especially for all the amazing afternoons my friends and I had all alone cleaning off boulders and hiking to find new ones. Potential for mainly boulder problems though there is a lot of rock within eyesight of edison rd. that looks tall. 

Mike Womack · · Orcutt, CA · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 2,015

harsh... From what I remember, the rock quality is sub-par, but who cares cause climbing is fun.  I'll take one if you still have a copy!  I've moved to Sherman oaks from agoura a few months ago so it adds to the drive, but once it cools down, I'd be down to check the area out.

Anonymous · · Unknown Hometown · Joined unknown · Points: 0

I'll see if I can get ahold of my buddies who still live down there and see if they can get you a copy. Is your email on this website your current one? 

Mike Womack · · Orcutt, CA · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 2,015

Yeah, I believe so.  Thanks

BigNobody · · all over, mostly Utah · Joined Nov 2013 · Points: 10
V0Hero wrote:

No kidding. Shouldn't talk about it as if it's finished though, gets the peoples hopes up (not aimed at you, Guy). That's how the situation was described to me a year ago by someone in the know. Comparing the Fry guide to any climbing guidebook made after 2000 (excluding the stoney point guidebook) is apples to oranges. Not even in the same league. The hand drawn topos are often wrong, there have been incredible amounts of development since then, the camera was invented, etc. 

Typical "gimme" generational Bullshit. You want it now damnit! 

Get over yourself, somebody is putting in some hard work you'll get to benefit from later.

Anonymous · · Unknown Hometown · Joined unknown · Points: 0
BigNobody wrote:

Typical "gimme" generational Bullshit. You want it now damnit! 

Get over yourself, somebody is putting in some hard work you'll get to benefit from later.

Typical old fart, chiming in because his/her word is law and those young whippersnappers blah blah blah. They've been talking up their guidebook as almost done for a year and a half plus. Surely you've heard the old addage "if you don't have anything nice to say..." What compelled you to write such an insulting post in an otherwise constructive thread? Cue the standard "you don't know me" defense, but you aren't wrong. We come from different generations, sure, but I think to be so abrasive is uncalled for. I think you also rage-skimmed past the post where I mention I hand-drew a guide for my friends and I....

BigNobody · · all over, mostly Utah · Joined Nov 2013 · Points: 10
V0Hero wrote:

Typical old fart, chiming in because his/her word is law and those young whippersnappers blah blah blah. Surely you've heard the old addage "if you don't have anything nice to say..." What compelled you to write such an insulting post in an otherwise constructive thread? 

No son, I am pointing out that your generation wants everything and they wanted it yesterday. Your tone comes off as irritated that someone who has been putting many hours in, on a labor of love no less, isn't doing it fast enough for you. My point, maybe ask around for some beta. I am sorry if my keyboard words hurt your tender feelers. Surely there is a safe place you can go to while to type your response.

Anonymous · · Unknown Hometown · Joined unknown · Points: 0
BigNobody wrote:

No son, I am pointing out that your generation wants everything and they wanted it yesterday. Your tone comes off as irritated that someone who has been putting many hours in, on a labor of love no less, isn't doing it fast enough for you. My point, maybe ask around for some beta. I am sorry if my keyboard words hurt your tender feelers. Surely there is a safe place you can go to while to type your response.

Do I know you? This is a bizarre response and is derailing the thread. If you wanna start a "someone pissed in my wheaties" thread you can go do that in the Utah section?  Smoke a bit too much this morning, my guy? 

Michael Brady · · Wenatchee, WA · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 1,362
BigNobody wrote:

No son, I am pointing out that your generation wants everything and they wanted it yesterday. Your tone comes off as irritated that someone who has been putting many hours in, on a labor of love no less, isn't doing it fast enough for you. My point, maybe ask around for some beta. I am sorry if my keyboard words hurt your tender feelers. Surely there is a safe place you can go to while to type your response.

You sir are being an A hole. 

It is pretty much a time honored tradition to lament upon the lack of a guide and to complain about how log it takes to complete one. It has nothing to do with what generation someone is from. Your generation brought about one of the worst economics crises the US has seen all in the name of expansion and waiting object wealth rapidly.......oh wait so did the generation before you.

BigNobody · · all over, mostly Utah · Joined Nov 2013 · Points: 10
V0Hero wrote:

Do I know you? This is a bizarre response and is derailing the thread. If you wanna start a "someone pissed in my wheaties" thread you can go do that in the Utah section?  Smoke a bit too much this morning, my guy? 

Yes you do. I'm the old guy who stole your project and your girlfriend. She tells some pretty embarrassing stories about you.  And I've been up for hours kid, that ganja ain't legal here in Utah, so I'll leave the smoking to you and yer brahs, bro.

NEWS FLASH! I climb in California from time to time to. 

BigNobody · · all over, mostly Utah · Joined Nov 2013 · Points: 10
Mike Brady wrote:

You sir are being an A hole. 

Yup, I am. Now, get off my lawn.

BigNobody · · all over, mostly Utah · Joined Nov 2013 · Points: 10

Are you taking your toys with you out of the sandbox too? Awwww come on Junior, I was just busting your balls. You kids are so sensitive! It's ok, it's time for my 1pm nap. I'll leave you kids alone. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern California
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