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Jay, VT area climbing
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MP hive-mind, I'll be in Jay, VT in July, and am looking to get on some sweet trad routes. MP shows the nearest areas are near Lake Willoughby or Black Mountain. Is there anything closer that just isn't listed on MP? Ideally looking for 2-3 pitch 5.8 - 5.10 trad within 20-30 minutes of Jay Peak. Thanks for the help! |
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How far is Jay from Poko and Potter/Silver Lake Mts? |
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About 2+ hours to Poko. |
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how far to Barton VT? |
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Definitely go to Wheeler and do the Great Corner, among others.....great granite there, it'll take 45 mins from Jay. Otherwise you can get to Smuggs notch in an hour. |
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anyone know what/ if there are bird closures? great corner was missing the 2nd pin ther last time I was up there. It sported fixed micro mank instead. way better climb with the pin than without INMOP |
Nick Goldsmith wrote: |
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Surprised nobody mentioned Smugs or Upper Bolton. They are about 1 to 1 1/2 hours south, but a nice ride. |
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the guys who have it TR wired declared the pin not nessicary. it climbed much better when it was 2 pins and a bolt in that section. last time I was up there it was fixed micro mank that is hard to inspect so you pretty much have to back it up with micro gear that is damn hard to see when placeing so you put more of it in. I had 6 pieces in the same section that would have been 3 clips and much more exciteing climbing with the fixed LA in place. . when I suggested replaceing the pin with a bolt I was actually told to sack up and wire the gear on top rope whater ever the F that means........ way braver of a lead to walk up to it and lead it with 3 clips and the possibility of big air. Now its just annoying and tedious micro gear wankery. still worth doing for shure but not as fun and spicy as it was with the 3 clips.... |
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Go to Wheeler you won't be disappointed. |
afemery wrote: Maybe because the OP said "20-30 minutes"? |
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The scar left from the pin is now one of the better nut placements on the route. I am glad it has not been replaced, probably safer without it. It would be foolish to trust any of those pins without a prior inspection. Many times that pin has come out in my hand. The route can be protected well if you take the time to place the gear. I don't even find micro wires necessary. I have not seen any fixed wires on the route for some time. |
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glad that its not filled with mank. still think it was way more fun to clip and go for it. Its more of a redpoint rout now with sussing the gear the main factor. lot of folks took the monster whip on that pin. |
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Mark, you should talk to David Powers who replied in this thread. He is a VT slab master and has established many routes in Northern VT. |
Marc801 C wrote: Wheeler is about an hour ... go figure. |
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As far as I know, Wheeler Mt or Smugglers Notch is the closest climbing to Jay. Both have what you are looking for. Another half hour of driving will get you to Bolton, Marshfield or even Lac Lyster in Quebec. The guidebook Tough Schist will have all the info you need for VT climbing. |
Nick Goldsmith wrote: Another place to check for closures to protect falcons is http://www.vtfishandwildlife.com/cms/One.aspx?portalId=73163&pageId=83203 -- currently ok to climb at Wheeler |
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Wheeler sounds like what you're looking for. Not much there is listed on mp but there are 100 or so routes in tough Schist the vt guidebook |
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I believe that a low ball fits well in that pin scar on the great corner. |
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Its a good #4 BD stopper placement would not recomend a lowball as it may be permanant fixed if you fall on it...... dave. thanx for replaceing the old bolts on VJ's. the cliff was seeping fairly agressivly yesterday and the new bolt was much appreciated. had the place to ourselfs except for an annoying drone....... seemed to be flying from the summit??? |
