Climber and "coach" on same single pitch anchor?

ViperScale wrote:

Don't tape outdoors just chalk the living heck out of the holds. We completely pissed off some people at a bouldering area onetime doing this. It was kinda fun.

Why would you do a dick move like that? Did it make you feel better about yourself?

Aleks Zebastian wrote:

climbing friend,

WWLHD?

what would lynn hill do? if you truly cannot utilize your footsies in higher positioning, and/or utilize the intermediate holdings, then your one solution final and true is hucking massive for dyno to jug oh boy wow!

Climbing friend Aleks,

The hucking massive for anything remotely looking like a possibility to latch on to is one of the moves deployed in, alas, my "failed" attempt at a first lead. 

Sadly, I neglected to photographically document the multiple attempts, nor the many colorful and festive bruisings and abradings of various and sundry body parts that went unnoticed in the heat of battle, but required hot steamy soakings days later.

As for Lynn Hill? Mmmm. Unless someone  is shipping her, yourself, or anyone else of these semi useless MP people to Boise to help me climb (hard to do without partners), you can stick WWLHD in a thin hands crack where the ....

Oops. Guideline #1.

OLH

Aleks Zebastian wrote:WWLHD?

Levitate, of course. Watching her at my local gym can be either inspirational or a go-home-and-burn-my-shoes experience.

wendy weiss wrote:

Levitate, of course. Watching her at my local gym can be either inspirational or a go-home-and-burn-my-shoes experience.

Haha! I vacillate between those two options constantly. 

Fortunately, I'm quite stubborn. 

Wendy, did you see the post about art for back packs?

OLH

Old lady H wrote:

Wendy, did you see the post about art for back packs?

I did, but I don't think it would be a good fit. Thanks for asking, though.

Another option, give it a rest, climb something else. 

I have a grudge climb list miles long, but don't feel the need to flog myself on these routes, just have the intent to get back and try them someday. And if I don't so what? There are a million others to have fun on.

mountainhick wrote:

Another option, give it a rest, climb something else. 

I have a grudge climb list miles long, but don't feel the need to flog myself on these routes, just have the intent to get back and try them someday. And if I don't so what? There are a million others to have fun on.

Yeah, fun's good! 

I'm not fixated on it. I've got several fun projects in mind, and, honestly, climbing anything with anyone would make me pretty darn happy!

Best, H.

Don't take this the wrong way, but don't you get tired of making the same excuses every time you start a new thread? Every time you make a new thread you complain that you're too old, too short, arms aren't long enough, too heavy, too inexperienced, too self-depreciative, not enough time. I'm not a great climber, but I also recognize why, and make the best out of the time I have. I do everything I can to not complain or vent my shortcomings, because in the end they don't help anything. Quit making excuses!

Eplumer400 wrote:

Don't take this the wrong way, but don't you get tired of making the same excuses every time you start a new thread? Every time you make a new thread you complain that you're too old, too short, arms aren't long enough, too heavy, too inexperienced, too self-depreciative, not enough time. I'm not a great climber, but I also recognize why, and make the best out of the time I have. I do everything I can to not complain or vent my shortcomings, because in the end they don't help anything. Quit making excuses!

excuses are poor form 99% of the time. just huck and let it go.

Eplumer400 wrote:

I'm not a great climber, but I also recognize why, and make the best out of the time I have. 

I'd like to throw out another perspective; it seems to me this is exactly what OLH is doing. She recognizes why she is not a great climber, and is trying to make the best of what she's got - including by asking for advice here from other climbers. I've seen her mention her shortness, oldness, heaviness, newness, many times, but almost always in the context of "so what advice do you have to help me overcome this?", rather than "so therefore life isn't fair." 

Here, she's not complaining about the tall FAist or calling it a stupid route, she's determined to figure out how to climb it, to "make the best of what she's got", perhaps by figuring out how to get some coaching from someone who can watch her closely through the crux. 

I do not subscribe to the "there are no stupid questions" philosophy, but for the most part her questions seem totally reasonable for a brand new climber without a strong local network of mentors. And unlike many new climber questions on here, she tends to listen to and incorporate the good advice when she hears it (.... with maybe one notable exception.)

Eplumer400 wrote:

Don't take this the wrong way, but don't you get tired of making the same excuses every time you start a new thread? Every time you make a new thread you complain that you're too old, too short, arms aren't long enough, too heavy, too inexperienced, too self-depreciative, not enough time. I'm not a great climber, but I also recognize why, and make the best out of the time I have. I do everything I can to not complain or vent my shortcomings, because in the end they don't help anything. Quit making excuses

John Sherman advocated maintaining a long list of excuses for why you didn't send. So maybe it's not so much the making of excuses as it is using the same one over and over makes it worn out and tired?

Tradgic Yogurt wrote:

John Sherman advocated maintaining a long list of excuses for why you didn't send. So maybe it's not so much the making of excuses as it is using the same one over and over makes it worn out and tired?

That sounds legit, just don't know if this message board is the proper sounding board for every time a *insert your description here* doesn't send that super sick 5.5 top rope proj.

I mean cool I am rooting for you, and hope you can get like 7 bros to spot you mid route, but maybe let us know after your send.

Jaren Watson wrote:

H, 

I took my kids on that route yesterday. First time I've climbed it. The move you're talking about is harder than the grade implies, in my opinion.

I skirted around to the right before getting into the scoop. Lots of bird droppings, but big holds for hands and feet. Then I moved back left, clipped the final bolt, and pulled on top to get to the chains.

For what it's worth, I think Nash-E-Mun is an easier lead, though it's allegedly a grade harder.

Jaren, I agree. I've climbed toddler several times, on top rope, and then you can bypass that bit, right or left. The anchors are out of reach, too, but that's just a belly flop off the ledge onto the big ledge. Great spot to sit and teach anchor cleaning, by the way. "First Lead" is an easier climb also, to the Toddler anchors. 

On lead, I was right at the bolt, in the scoop, so going around far enough to bypass the bulge would have made for an awkward fall, put me too far from the next clip, and my belayer and I vetoed that, for me on lead. Partly why I'd like him up there, but mostly, if I learn these scoop/bulge things it will help with lots of our local routes. I'm edging on fairly small stuff, but I need to find it, and something for a hand. If I'm going for the supposed jug, I've gotta know just where the sucker is, if making a fast, dynamic intermediate scramble to slap it. If I need two moves in there, it'll be even harder, but I could have him clip the next bolt, and I could work that section hard.

All, when I tried the lead in March, that was it for our entire climbing trip. I do work hard at these, put thought into it, and push at my limits. 

Jaren, if you can get a rope up Fat Ankles, the bottom half of Little Flower is very easy, with loads of holds. It's in the book as a trad, but the rock quality is pretty crummy. Top half is to the Fat Ankles anchors.

Nashemun is on my to do list, to lead. I've climbed it on top rope. It was easier, for sure. I think the crux might be the last move to the anchor.

Eplummer, yes, I do sorta make excuses, but sometimes it is also just statement of fact. I can't do much about shrinkage (I'm shorter than when I started, lol), but I am getting stronger and leaner, and by choosing to just huck it up, I am refusing to get older. Technique is coming along too. When I say I can't do something, there is usually a big "yet!" attached. There is a race with time, at 60, that most don't have when they are in their 20's.

Em, thanks! I suspect the "one notable exception" might be anchoring? If so, I do prefer not to, but, that is a case by case decision. If one of the people I climb with in the gym ends up.being an outdoor partner, then yes, I will be anchoring on some of his leads. ;-)

Best, OLH

Em Cos wrote:

...

Here, she's not complaining about the tall FAist or calling it a stupid route, she's determined to figure out how to climb it, to "make the best of what she's got", perhaps by figuring out how to get some coaching from someone who can watch her closely through the crux. 

...

I (or rather my climbing partners) can vouch for how helpful it can be to have someone up there with you. On a recent trip, I jugged up with my DSLR to take climbing photos on a route with a tricky crux. My subjects found it immensely helpful to have someone hanging above them on the climb; when they got stuck, they had someone there to point out the holds that they couldn't see.

OLH, as others have stated, those anchors will hold both of you just fine. Good luck tackling the route!

Andrew Krajnik wrote:

I (or rather my climbing partners) can vouch for how helpful it can be to have someone up there with you. On a recent trip, I jugged up with my DSLR to take climbing photos on a route with a tricky crux. My subjects found it immensely helpful to have someone hanging above them on the climb; when they got stuck, they had someone there to point out the holds that they couldn't see.

This is climbing deconstructed.  Just the raw essence of it.  The other great thing about this approach is that if you still cant get the move with 7 bro bros pointing to it, you could fifi off their belay loop or they can just climb it for you.  Everyone gets the send. 

jason.cre wrote:

This is climbing deconstructed.  Just the raw essence of it.  The other great thing about this approach is that if you still cant get the move with 7 bro bros pointing to it, you could fifi off their belay loop or they can just climb it for you.  Everyone gets the send. 

Hey, I'm not saying it's for everyone. The people in our group were climbing for fun, not for egos. A few of them had never climbed outdoor before, and we were at a crag that's notorious for cryptic beta and tricky routefinding... We all had fun, I got some great pics, and they were able to figure out some tricky sequences. A great day on the rock, IMHO.

If I'm frustrated on a route, I welcome beta from more experienced climbers. It's helped me expand my movement repertoire at a much faster pace than otherwise, and grow as a climber. If this type of beta is what helps OLH make it over the hump (literally) on this type of route, I say go for it.

Kyle Tarry wrote:

Andrew Krajnik wrote:

Hey, I'm not saying it's for everyone. The people in our group were climbing for fun, not for egos. A few of them had never climbed outdoor before, and we were at a crag that's notorious for cryptic beta and tricky routefinding... We all had fun, I got some great pics, and they were able to figure out some tricky sequences. A great day on the rock, IMHO.

If I'm frustrated on a route, I welcome beta from more experienced climbers. It's helped me expand my movement repertoire at a much faster pace than otherwise, and grow as a climber. If this type of beta is what helps OLH make it over the hump (literally) on this type of route, I say go for it.

Thanks, sir, much appreciated!

Nice of you to hang to take pictures, too. Much better than butt shots.

OLH

Marc801 C wrote:

Why would you do a dick move like that? Did it make you feel better about yourself?

No we were projecting a V4. It wasn't Germany so there isn't a no chalk policy and we were at this area at least every other weekend (4 hour drive for us to get there) we all got a kick out of the people who walked up and started bitching about the chalk on the wall (wasn't even that much to be honest compared to some areas I have been).

I think this is a image I found online of the wall (not 100% have not been to this area in a long time and there was no guide but so grade wise /shrug who knows it was all word of mouth). As you can clearly see there is tons of chalk on the wall even though this was taken probably years after we were there.