Climbing in July

Hey all,

I'm planning a 2 week climbing trip for the first half of July. Curious if anyone has beta on where to find good climbing in the heat of summer. I'm interested in 5.11 sport and beginner trad / multipitch.

Currently thinking about hopping between the New and Linville Gorge with maybe a few days in the Red. How bad is the Red in July?

The Red in July will be hot and humid, but definitely doable! It's actually nice because it's a lot less crowded. And honestly, you don't need perfect conditions when you are climbing on jugs, haha. There is plenty of shade thanks to the tree cover. You'll just want to bring some bug spray and plenty of chalk.

Thanks Kim, that's good to hear. I wasn't sure just how hot and buggy it gets, but it sounds like its not too bad. Less crowds is definitely a big plus, would probably be a good time to get on the classics down there

If you're looking for beginner trad, you may also want to think about Seneca. Seneca is a blade of rock that runs north south so you have an east and west face. This means you can avoid the sun throughout the day. The main part of the cliff is above the trees so bugs are not much of an issue and if there is a breeze it will be felt. Yea, it is WV so it will be hot and humid but it is still climbable if you chase the shade.

cool, thanks Mark! Seneca sounds like a good option

If you're going to go to Linville definitely visit Shiprock which is near Grandfather mountain. Good climbing and at an elevation of almost 5000 feet it's probably the coolest summer crag east of the Mississippi and south of New Hampshire. 

Emil Briggs wrote:

If you're going to go to Linville definitely visit Shiprock which is near Grandfather mountain. Good climbing and at an elevation of almost 5000 feet it's probably the coolest summer crag east of the Mississippi and south of New Hampshire. 

Thanks man! Shiprock looks awesome. But I only see 3 trad routes 5.7 or lower on MP. Is there some easier trad for someone still getting into it? Also curious if you could compare the grading to anything in the NE like Rumney or the gunks? Curious how stiff the ratings are

I've never climbed at Rumney but Ship is probably a little softer than the Gunks (at least in the easier grades). One of the 5.8s on the Upper Tier called Lost at Sea is a well protected moderate 5.8 and the 5.7 up there called Edge of a Dream is a great climb for a beginning trad leader. There is also a 5.9 on the main wall called Borrowed Time which is really a boulder problem followed by a 5.7 corner/crack. If you can climb 5.11 sport you should be fine on them (and they all have bolted top anchors). Not a huge amount in the grades you're looking for but should be enough to keep you busy for a day.

Varun, what Gunks climbs have you been on?  And did you lead any?

Emil Briggs wrote:

I've never climbed at Rumney but Ship is probably a little softer than the Gunks (at least in the easier grades). One of the 5.8s on the Upper Tier called Lost at Sea is a well protected moderate 5.8 and the 5.7 up there called Edge of a Dream is a great climb for a beginning trad leader. There is also a 5.9 on the main wall called Borrowed Time which is really a boulder problem followed by a 5.7 corner/crack. If you can climb 5.11 sport you should be fine on them (and they all have bolted top anchors). Not a huge amount in the grades you're looking for but should be enough to keep you busy for a day.

Thanks Emil, those three all sound like solid climbs for me. Thanks for the recommendations. Bolted top anchors is definitely a plus.

Russ Keane wrote:Varun, what Gunks climbs have you been on?  And did you lead any?

Russ, I actually have never climbed in the Gunks. I threw that out there since I thought it was a more popular destination than what I've been to, and I've heard some about the Gunks grades. I've led trad at Crow Hill, Farley Ledges, and Rumney, all in the NE

The new and red will be hot humid and buggy. They are climbable, but be mindful of aspect. Summersville is amazing in the summer, given the proximity to water.

Seneca has some good north facing multipitch. Definitely worth a look if in the area.

As for Linville, the moderates at Table Rock are great, and you can find shade when you need to, though you'll probably fry if you go down to the Amphitheater. It's a solar collector for much of the day. 

"I'm planning a 2 week climbing trip for the first half of July"

Why not stay in the northeast?  Or go back up there if you can.  July is off-season for the southeast.   As for grade comparisons, there is nothing noteworthy about the grades here vs. there, or anywhere really, when it comes to moderate trad routes.  Things tend to be pretty consistent across the spectrum; a 5.6 or 5.7 is going to be similar at one place to another in terms of difficulty.   Major sandbagging is somewhat of an urban myth.  Now, when you start comparing sport to trad, and trying to understand how leading on gear at 5.7 will compare to  Rumney climbing, this is hard.  My guess is that you are capable, if you lead 5.11 outdoor sport.  You should have no problem becoming a trad leader and handling the technical aspects of surmounting a 5.7 route, anywhere.  

Russ - the NE is definitely an option. I think I'm not as stoked on it since NH is usually pretty accessible for me so I'd like to travel a bit. While the South will certainly be hot, hopefully we can chase shade and cooler crags, and see some new areas. And thanks for the advice about grading, I think you're right that 5.7 trad should be do-able for us.

BrianWS and AField - thanks for the advice! Summersville and Seneca are both on our list. I'll check out Table Rock