Gravity scale for climbing grades ?
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Is there any rule of thumb like 1 letter grade difference equivalent to a 10% change in gravity ? |
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Serge Smirnov wrote: No. |
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For high grades (starting around 8a/5.13b) there is an adequate enough "grip strength to climbing grade" scale (+5% of body weight both crimp and slopper strength equals to +1 plus on French scale). |
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Does gravity change at high altitude or is it just when you get too high? 1 letter for the latter. |
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Generally the higher you are the thinner the oxygen which means it will feel harder to climb. So a 5.7 at sea level will feel like a 5.9 at like 14k ft above sea level (at least until you get your body used to the altitude) Gravity on the other hand doesn't change enough for you to notice a difference. |
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You're thinking of cheeseburgers. A few weeks of one cheeseburger a day equates to 5% gravity increase, 2 cheeseburgers a day = 10%, and so on. When I want gravity to feel more intense I subscribe to the lesser known but highly effective hot fudge sundae program. |
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a 5.7 at sea level will feel like a 5.9 at like 14k ft above sea level (at least until you get your body used to the altitude) It's so true we used to say an extra 1 or 2 grades especially for stamina events at around 13-14k even if you are used to it. Sometimes gravity changes too getting a bit floaty and sometimes 'pulling sideways'... However we can compensate for these small things with perfect conditions and blessings from lord Shiva. |
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Normally when I get down I just put on some scuba gear and do some underwater climbing. That way I can control gravity by increasing / decreasing the air in my vest / weight I am wearing. |
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Pil Jungli wrote: A-men brother |
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So on the moon 5.14 is really 5.5.......from now on I'm only climbing in low gravity zones. I predict sport climbers will be doing helium enemas next............ ;) |
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actually, yes. that's exactly it - 10% body weight for each v grade. v5 = 50% body weight v7 = 70% v13 = 130% convert to rope similarly. |
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A reddit user pointed me (indirectly) to https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/112244952/are-your-fingers-strong-enough, which references https://cdn-files.apstatic.com/climb/112249688_medium_1494328613.jpg. It's not quite what I was asking for - a harder climber likely has advantages besides finger strength - but it's close. |