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Stick-clipping pre-hung draws?

Original Post
Matthew Massey · · South Charleston, WV · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 5

Hey dudes,

So this is probably a dumb question. I have a painters pole and a Superclip attachment for stickclippin' first bolts. However, i've never thought about this but what knot exactly would I need to be using on my pole to be able to pull my rope through and stick-clip a pre-hung draw?

Thanks in advance!

Jonathan S · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2010 · Points: 2,113

Rodeo clip it.

Matthew Massey · · South Charleston, WV · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 5
Jonathan Steitzer wrote:

Rodeo clip it.

Mind elaborating? I'm basically clueless when it comes to knots outside the basics of sport climbing, i'm very new.

Boissal . · · Small Lake, UT · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 1,541

No knot needed. Even with a super skinny cord you can pinch a loop in the Superclip, raise it to the bolt, and slowly pull one of the strands to close the loop over the gate. 

Edit: JJ beat me to it, last part of the video. Now try to use the Superclip to remove a draw, that's the real challenge...

ScoJo · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 481

Affix a loop of rope to your stick (with tape perhaps). Position the loop around the carabiner. Pull on one side of the rope to tighten the loop, so that it opens the carabiner gate and lets the rope through. 

There should be plenty of videos on youtube that demonstrate this.

Jonathan S · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2010 · Points: 2,113
Matthew Massey · · South Charleston, WV · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 5
Jake Jones wrote:

Feed a bight of rope between the two prongs of the superclip- ensuring that the climber's side of the rope is facing outward.  You'll want a small bight about 3" or so.  The superclip side goes along the spine of the biner you're clipping and the bight should rest in front of the gate.  Now just pull both strands of the rope forcefully and the bight will clip into the biner.  

Awesome. That answers my question fully. Thanks everyone!

Brandt Allen · · Joshua Tree, Cal · Joined Jan 2004 · Points: 210

Go to youtube and search for superclip. Many videos show you how.

jmmlol · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2016 · Points: 0

Using be above technique, I had good luck aligning the loop at the bottom of the gate, then yanking one end of the rope since as you pull the loop tends to flip up. If it's too high it ends up grabbing the dogbone.

Along similar lines, this same trick works with a twig that's y-shaped on the end if you find yourself desperate.

To remove a draw clip a rope and pull it tight to keep the draw from moving. 

Rprops · · Nevada · Joined Nov 2015 · Points: 2,422
John Byrnes · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 392
Jake Jones wrote:

Feed a bight of rope between the two prongs of the superclip- ensuring that the climber's side of the rope is facing outward.  You'll want a small bight about 3" or so.  The superclip side goes along the spine of the biner you're clipping and the bight should rest in front of the gate.  Now just pull both strands of the rope forcefully and the bight will clip into the biner.  Like this:

The above technique works much of the time but with a slick skinny rope and/or a long stick, it often doesn't. 

The better way is to wrap one of the prongs of the Superclip with a loop of rope; this will be the belay side.   As above, make a small bight then push the leader's side down into the Superclip and clip as shown in the video, except that you only pull the leader's side of the rope.

The advantage of wrapping one prong is that it holds half the weight of the rope so the rope doesn't fall out while you're trying to get the clip, and the extra wrap puts creates more friction on the leader's side, so it doesn't slip out so easily.  

Jon Frisby · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 290

You can also add a second loop of rope to increase stability. Make a bend between the tines, then take one of the strands around one side of the tines. Then you would pull the free end to tighten around the draw and snap it into place. 

aikibujin · · Castle Rock, CO · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 300
John Byrnes wrote:

The above technique works much of the time but with a slick skinny rope and/or a long stick, it often doesn't. 

This is what I do: put one bight of rope between the two prongs, then make a second bight of rope and feed it through the two prongs on top of the first bight, this will hold it in place. Pull on the first bight to clip the draw, pull on the second bight to undo the whole thing.

AndyMac · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 1,123
Boissal wrote:

Now try to use the Superclip to remove a draw, that's the real challenge...

If you think you might want to remove the draw with it, just use a draw with a skinny dogbone and it's no big deal.  A draw with a fat dogbone will make you cuss!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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