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Erik Sloan
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May 26, 2017
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Yosemite, CA
· Joined Dec 2013
· Points: 254
I'm making a list of 'common problems' that might pop up on bigwall climbs, each to be addressed in my new how-to bigwall book, Climb the Nose. Help me add to this list! Going slower than expected Other parties on the route Knot in the haul line or lead line? Water bottle explodes Can’t get the piece out Can’t communicate because of wind or waterfall Partner wants to bail Dropped piece of gear Weather much colder/hotter than expected Got lost on the approach Lost time trying to get to parking in the Valley Got off route and had to leave a piece to get back on route Haulbag stuck Start your period on the wall Thanks! Erik Sloan, owner RockclimbYosemite.com - Yosemitebigwall.com
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Ray Pinpillage
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May 26, 2017
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West Egg
· Joined Jul 2010
· Points: 180
Getting lost at grid-bolted belay stations.
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Erik Sloan
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May 26, 2017
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Yosemite, CA
· Joined Dec 2013
· Points: 254
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Eric Fjellanger
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May 27, 2017
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined May 2008
· Points: 870
Don't know how to lower out Thought you knew how to lower out but turns out you don't Rope management! Easiest way to cluster and lose hours Don't have mental game dialed- it's easy to get overwhelmed rather than focusing on one pitch/hour/day at a time Not good at knowing how and when to transition from free to aid or back, trying to free too much, trying to aid too much Hauling totally sucks
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Erik Sloan
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May 27, 2017
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Yosemite, CA
· Joined Dec 2013
· Points: 254
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Old lady H
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May 27, 2017
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Boise, ID
· Joined Aug 2015
· Points: 1,374
For a beginner? Losing confidence in what you're doing, or worse yet, losing confidence in the person who drug you up there.
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Em Cos
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May 27, 2017
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Boulder, CO
· Joined Apr 2010
· Points: 5
Old lady H wrote:For a beginner? Losing confidence in what you're doing, or worse yet, losing confidence in the person who drug you up there. Yeah, don't drug your partners on grade V or VI climbs. Save that nonsense for single pitch.
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grog m
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May 27, 2017
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Saltlakecity
· Joined Aug 2012
· Points: 70
Ray Pinpillage wrote:Getting lost at grid-bolted belay stations. Dumb. Doesn't even make sense. Partner is being an ass because tired/hungry. Damaged hands, feet, ankles etc (cuts, tears, bruises).
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Lewis H
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May 27, 2017
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rapid city, SD
· Joined Nov 2016
· Points: 5
When you could name so many problems while climbing but as soon as I see this my mind goes blank
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Nathan Mielke
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May 29, 2017
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Springdale
· Joined May 2017
· Points: 45
Tips for hanging belays. How to set up port a ledge. How to safely sleep on ledge. Simply How to poop
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Moof
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May 29, 2017
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Portland, OR
· Joined Dec 2007
· Points: 25
Outdated topos that are missing all the weak pathetic retrobolts that keep getting added.
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Erik Sloan
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Jun 1, 2017
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Yosemite, CA
· Joined Dec 2013
· Points: 254
Good ones Nathan! Thank You!...keep em coming!
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20 kN
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Jun 1, 2017
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Feb 2009
· Points: 1,346
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Ben Stabley
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Jun 1, 2017
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Portland, OR
· Joined Sep 2014
· Points: 207
Nathan Mielke wrote:Tips for hanging belays. How to set up port a ledge. How to safely sleep on ledge. Simply How to poop Yes! None of the "How to Climb Big Walls" books really ever talks about the basics of living on a wall. There's more to it than "go fast and don't make a clusterfuck".
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llanSan
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Jun 1, 2017
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Aug 2014
· Points: 130
The minimum equipment needed.
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ALEXAOUTDOOR Alexa smit
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Jun 1, 2017
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined May 2017
· Points: 5
llanSan wrote:-Climb in peace, Alexa-
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Ryan Hamilton
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Jun 1, 2017
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Orem
· Joined Aug 2011
· Points: 5
I'll 2nd the rope management. So much time can be lost with tangled ropes. Also, setting up the haul bag at the belay so that there is easy access to food, water, gear. I've gotten myself into trouble when the bag was not in a convenient spot at a belay and I figured I would just get water/food at the next belay, then 4 hours later you finally get some fuel in you. No bueno.
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Andrew G
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Jun 1, 2017
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Pittsburgh, PA
· Joined Feb 2013
· Points: 404
20 kN wrote: I have an addition for your list:
climb too quickly
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