Easy trad towers/multipitch near Moab
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Heading out to stay in arches in a few weeks. Looking for a few desert towers and would love to find some easy multi. Can comfortably lead 5.7 on gear. Have a single rack BD .3-3 but don't mind buying a larger piece if a specific route needed it. Full set of nuts and hexes at well. Looking for something maybe less crowded so I don't slow anyone up? Have some multi-pitch experience but not quick yet. Been combing MP and was looking at a few 5.6 towers but anything specific and fun I should look at? |
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Towers within your limit: Owl Rock (no chalk!), the Molar (if you can chimney or want to learn. Not trad, and not quite a tower) |
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Thanks Adam, much appreciated. All that stuff in San Rafael looks amazing and I'll definitely check it out. |
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Brendan, I will be in Moab Friday for a couple weeks and am looking for climbing partners! I have some big cams, I would love to do some towers with you. Give me a call/text if interested. 507-402-2426 bridger |
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Most of the 5.7ish towers are going to be a lot more serious than typical 5.7 trad cragging routes, and will require more than 1 set of cams. Owl Rock is a sandbag for a 5.7 leader - more like steep physical 5.8 that would be best with a double set and a 4 camalot. Protects well with enough gear, and hexes actually work ok. South Sixshooter at Indian Creek would work with a single rack - just be aware that the mantel move is pretty heads up for 5.7. Impish in the Fisher Towers is easy and gives you a taste of that strange place. Most of the easy looking routes in the Swell are runout and on soft rock. Good reasonably safe options are Tiki Tower with a bolted short crux, Mother Goose- Nursery Rhymes, and the easiest and best protected routes(look at the most popular ones and read descriptions carefully) in the Eastern Reef Area.. AKA The Sandstone Alps. Window Blind Peak - North Rib is amazing, but difficult and serious for 5.7 - tricky climbing and questionable rock and gear with a monster approach. You'll want to borrow a few more cams. |
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In Arches Off Balance Rock has NorthEast Chimney (I thought is was a bit harder than the 5.7 rating. Bullwinkle has West Chimney. Tonka Tower is rated 5.8 C0 if you pull on the bolts. |
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Willis Tower is in that 5.7/5.8 range, if you can find it. |
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Put Looking Glass Arch on your list. 3 pitches of easy 5.6. Do the rap then do the rope swing. Check out the videos on YouTube: |
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Thanks for all the suggestions folks... heading out tomorrow and looking forward to some of these adventures!! |