John R Clark wrote:Hi,
I just started climbing in the valley last summer and I have started climbing some one star routes that obviously don't see much traffic, but should. On a few routes, the raps have been off of trees that present dangerous falls to access or aren't ideally rooted. While I'm all for the machismo of the valley, would it be a party foul to place rap bolts at the top of some of these routes to make rappelling safer and place less wear on trees?
Cheers
Case by case basis that takes solid judgment and lots of experience.
Keep in mind whatever you do is going to be essentially a permanent change and the current situation as is, has been likely accepted by a large part of the community. This doesn't mean its right or ideal by any means (maybe people are just being lazy) but there may be factors you haven't considered.
I have advocated for separate rappel routes to avoid parties standing on trees as it eventually shortens their life or kills them. Walk offs can be dangerous (history of accidents) or cause catastrophic erosion etc etc...
Weighting a properly slung tree is not so much of a worry if the bark is not being destroyed.
But, for example, there were reports of bolts being placed at the top of Five and Dime to make it easier to rap and rig solo mini-trax lines rather than use the trees in the back...pure convenience. This is wrong and ultimately self-serving for someone that likely will not see the consequences over time.
My friend Barry Bates who put up that route left no bolts for a reason and there is zero need to make it more convenient. What you see over the last ~50 years of the route's life is that it gradually is becoming slicker and slicker...there is a finite life to every rock climb before it is a slimy POS.
So, keep in mind, inconveniences that limit traffic are actually a very good thing in such a popular place as Yosemite Valley. This may affect the route you have in mind.