I want to learn trad climbing

Hey my name is Jake, I'm a sac local and fairly new to climbing, I've been living up in humboldt where there is not much trad and I'm hoping to find someone to teach me over summer in the tahoe area primarily!

Jake,  I'm in the same boat as you and am interested in joining you in the learning process (I don't have a mentor either).  You may be able to find a mentor if you join the adopt a crag event at lovers leap on June 3.

Hey guys if you ever make it around Reno, I'm more than happy to help start you on your journey.

Thank you guys both for your help!

Same boat and I'm in Sac. Been slowly gathering a starter rack.. Do you have more info on the adopt a crag even at the leap? I'd love to go.

jake vargas wrote:

Hey my name is Jake, I'm a sac local and fairly new to climbing, I've been living up in humboldt where there is not much trad and I'm hoping to find someone to teach me over summer in the tahoe area primarily!

BITD I was taken out by a mentor like many others and might consider returning the favor as I have always enjoyed teaching.

Do you have your own rack and rope Jake?

If between the 3 of you guys you can get a decent rack together we can do a trip to Lovers Leap sometime soon. Ideal for newbies. I'm available, I will leave it to you 3 to work out rack and times.

I'd post a resume but it would seem like ridiculous overkill (30+ years off and on in Yose). Just wanna give back like others did for me.

Basic stuff needed:

Set of BD Stoppers 5-12.

Cams from 3/4" to 4" one each will get us up Lovers classics. The more the merrier. Assume y'all have draws and some slings. Tied slings are handy for reasons we will go over.

Personal Gear:

ATC plus locker. Nut Cleaning Tool. Plus harness and shoes of course. Some cloth tape for hands can be useful.

Michael P wrote:

plus helmet too?

I'm old school so not a helmet guy on regular rock climbs.

Alpine enviro with real rock fall hazard, absolutely. Lovers does have some looseness, but it is not a major concern.

Falling stuff is a problem everywhere to a degree, but a helmet simply not a requirement there imo. This is a little bit of a generational issue that assumes safe climbing is not gear dependent, but experience and skill oriented. Awareness and not standing under gumbies is more important etc.

Anyone that posted is of course welcome to use them. 

Castle Crag? I would think that would be a good spot to learn trad in your area. 

@Tut, no resume needed. I've seen you posting here plenty. I really appreciate the offer and I'm so down.

Did you mean 1 rack of all that between the 3 of us or each?

In terms of pro what I have bene able to wrangle so far:

• C4 .4-.75, 3. (I'm working on finding 1 and 2)
• Stoppers 4-13
• WC Hexes 3-9 (you said you're old school so I assume you'd be ok with this haha)
• Red and pink tricams

I do have slings and some webbing along w/the personal items you mentioned.

@Jake, @Eric you guys down to make this happen?

Abdullah Mourad wrote:

@Tut, no resume needed. I've seen you posting here plenty. I really appreciate the offer and I'm so down.

Did you mean 1 rack of all that between the 3 of us or each?

In terms of pro what I have bene able to wrangle so far:

• C4 .4-.75, 3. (I'm working on finding 1 and 2)
• Stoppers 4-13
• WC Hexes 3-9 (you said you're old school so I assume you'd be ok with this haha)
• Red and pink tricams

I do have slings and some webbing along w/the personal items you mentioned.

@Jake, @Eric you guys down to make this happen?

All we need is one set of cams, like 6-8 plus stoppers (though doubles in 1"-3" cams would be welcome) to get up routes like Surrealistic Pillar, Bear's Reach etc. The focus would be on placing safe anchors, lead protection etc instead of remotely pushing grades. There are just nuances that you can't communicate easily in a written form without writing novels with complete picture examples etc. A day on the stone with some cracks is what is needed.

There is plenty of written stuff out there ad nauseum (SERENE etc) but there is no substitute for experience on the rock.

Ideally we could go up there on a weekday, rather than weekend, to take the sting out of the crowds.

Thanks Tut!  I have gear: full set of C4s, basic set Camp nuts,  draws, slings, 70 and 60m ropes, etc.  my biggest problem is time (job and kids.). At the moment, I'm free on June 4 (maybe 3rd).  I know Crags is doing a crag service at the leap on June 3 - talked to them on Saturday at the deer creek park cleanup.

Edit:  with enough notice,  I can book a day off work, depending on my calendar.  (I might be closer to your age). Let's make this trip work. 

Ok, Eric sounds solid. Work out a date with Abdullah and Jake and we'll take it from there. Between his and your cams etc we have plenty.

One ground rule: I promise it will be fun, but people have to listen. I'm pretty confident that once we get to know each other it will all go smoothly. :)

This all seems really solid, I personally have no trad gear but it seems like all of your guy's gear is plenty if you don't mind me mooching. Is it cool if I bring another friend? just in case you folks are weirdos ;) also I should be free from June 6- June 16 and June 23- thru august 

This is a great thread! After a couple of years, I still learn from my partners who almost always have more experience than me. Hope you all have a good time.

Guy Keesee wrote:

 

Thanks for that, Guy. 

I got taken out by a High School teacher when I was like 14....so lucky back in the 70's....gotta pay that debt somehow. :)

jake vargas wrote:

This all seems really solid, I personally have no trad gear but it seems like all of your guy's gear is plenty if you don't mind me mooching. Is it cool if I bring another friend? just in case you folks are weirdos ;) also I should be free from June 6- June 16 and June 23- thru august 

We'll start off doing stuff basically right on the ground building anchors and such so I don't see a problem there....BUT, if we do a route a party of 4 is more than enough (and kinda why I would like to do it mid-week if we can. Lovers is real old school trad with gear anchors required on most routes (perfect to learn) but it makes it tricky cause you can't just do something and go right back to the ground. You have to finish the 3 pitches and walk around, etc.

We'll just have to see what comes together etc. Work with the others to get a date.

Sounds good. Sounds like all that's left is finding a solid date 

jake vargas wrote:

Sounds good. Sounds like all that's left is finding a solid date 

Ideally mid-week. And ASAP.

If someone in the group can't make it, we can arrange a quick trip to just build anchors on local stone for that person, making do with what we have.

Basic Anchor construction: 

https://www.rei.com/learn/expert-advice/climbing-anchors.html

But I will emphasize there is no equalization that will substitute for bomber placements in solid stone for an anchor.

How to rack for trad. Every individual may find something they like a little better and every day is a little different but you cannot fault Beth here generally:

King Tut wrote; Ideally mid-week. And ASAP.

You guys better not mess this up.......Not often you'll get the opportunity to climb with someone with John's experience level. I would suggest paying close attention to what he does, not just what he might "show" you. Years from now you may find yourself doing something on a route and have to think about where you learned it. Or better yet have a "trick in the bag" you got out of this trip and use all the time. Pay attention to how he climbs, rests, when he makes placements, belay positions, etc. not just the gear aspects.  

JB