Finger POP When Bouldering - Suggestions?
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Hello all, I've got a painful injury and was looking for some direction. Injury Supplemental: I can pop the metacarpophalangeal and proximalphalangeal joint of the finger without joint pain. The issue is in-between the joints. Keep in mind this is my own assessment and I'm open to hearing clarifying analyses. How it happened Pictures below show specific areas of pain. I know the basics of RICE, stretching, strengthening, yoga, water, snake oil, etc. to deal with a pulley as I've self-treated many over the years. I will likely go to a primary care physician anyway (to make sure something isn't permanently torn), but I was hoping some climber/medical people with specific experience in this injury could put me on a focused path. |
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Your primary care physician will likely be totally useless. Most doctors know nothing about climbing injuries, but are too arrogant to admit it. Best case scenario they will admit that they aren't sure. Worst case scenario they will give you spectacularly bad advice that will sidetrack you from recovery. Don't bother. The sad state of affairs is that internet bro science is generally better than medical practice when it comes to finger injuries. TrainingBeta recently did a podcast on finger injuries. The advice given there is rock-solid. So go listen to that podcast. It is better than the advice any doctor is likely to give. In summary, rest at least a week to let the initial pain and swelling dissipate. Then begin careful, gradual, progressive rehab. |
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I also recommend that you listen to this podcast as a starting point https://www.trainingbeta.com/media/esther-fingers/ and as indicated in the podcast get expert help. this forum also has some practical advice https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/112846067/middlering-finger-flexor-injury (not the part about 100% rest...) Good luck with the recovery |
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Dave MacCleod's book is supposed to be excellent. |
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@JCM - I agree, but seeing a doc is to check whether something is torn. I don't trust my limited med training enough to do that on my own. @Rui - Thanks! I'm listening to that podcast now. I also read that forum post which confirmed recovery practices I already do. @Alexander - Good looking book. I'll keep it in mind. ($45 is a bit pricey, but I suppose it's worth the cost to help heal injuries.) Thanks for the info, everyone! I'm also holding out for anyone with specific knowledge about this injury. I know the standards of treating finger injuries... just not those on the anterior side at the lower phalanges. |
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@Andrew - Thanks for the "bro beta". Haha! I kind of figured all of the things everyone is saying. It just helps to get confirmation. We're (climbers) all in this together. I'm eager to see the science get much more developed on this stuff. I've been contacting a few climber-specific sports medicine doctors and will at least do a Skype session with them and then employ the tried and true methods I've used for my other fingers. |
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A3 pully and Vincula. I did that in 2012, same *pop* climbing. Went to a specialist who wanted to cut me open right away after seeing a MRI. Went for 2nd opinion from a climber/doctor, he was like "you're out for the season regardless - let it heal." I laid off rock for 6 months, wrote two books, and came back stronger & more motivated than ever. Surgery on small tendons doesn't do much. David L. Gunks, NY |
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I listened to the podcast. Most of it is just them chatting, which is sort of annoying, but there is good info in there consistent with the other sources I've read online. I'm not a doctor and it's only one person's opinion, but Esther's credentials speak for themselves and I think that if you follow her advice you'll heal up fine. Seems like there's plenty of anecdotal evidence, and a lack of solid scientific evidence, to suggest doing anything else. |
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Read the book "One move too many". I too had the all to common pully tear four years ago, and came back stronger than ever. Enjoy the next two to four months off. |
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Yer gonna die..... ..... of boredom while you rest that finger. |
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I had a really similar injury in December, It was in my middle finger though. Immediately after I couldn't even type or do everyday tasks. I followed advice from http://rockprodigytraining.proboards.com, the rock prodigy book, and Dave McCleod's website and took like three weeks off. Then I started hang boarding with about 60 pounds less weight then I would normally use and slowly worked my way back up to full weight. I recommend the recovery hang boarding. I was back to 100% in 4 months and never had any set backs (knock on wood) where I felt like I did further damage. |
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Amputate at the neck. That'll fix it fer sure. |
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Thanks for the info, everyone. I've been doing some self-healing work on it and it is already significantly better. Treatment: - Followed advice on training beta podcast Improvements: Thanks again to all. |