Kneeling while belaying the leader

Kevin Mokracek wrote:

Why not just stand to the side to avoid rope problems.   What happens when kneeling and you get yanked into the wall, seems kinds wonky to me.

I don't see the difference between standing and squatting. I haven't read the whole thread but I don't think anyone is arguing that it's better to be kneeling with both knees on the ground. Are they? 

JJNS wrote:

I don't see the difference between standing and squatting. I haven't read the whole thread but I don't think anyone is arguing that it's better to be kneeling with both knees on the ground. Are they? 

Since I have never seen anyone belaying other than standing, sitting or hanging I don't know what they mean by kneeling.   Just catch yer partner.  Climbing used to be a pretty simple sport.   A simple hip belay can catch massive falls.   I'm not saying go back to the hip belay but it does have it's place but for crying out loud belaying is just not that complicated.

Community,

I think we all need to agree that this thread is suffering from early onset keyboard jockey syndrome.

Not one of these esteemed "climbers" has just simply gone to the gym and tested the leader falling from the exact same point while belayer sits or stands and measuring distance from belay loop to ground.

Why is this even being discussed. It's a stupid idea to kneel while belaying. Stand up.

What about belaying while taking a squat?

I have the perfect solution....skip the first bolt, then you won't deck when clipping the second.    Seem silly?   So does limiting your mobility as a belayer.    But, if that's what floats your boat, go for it.   Just don't kneel if you belay me.   

AndrewArroz wrote:

What about belaying while taking a squat?

that sounds like a real good way to shit on your rope.....poor form

You will all kneel before me whilst you belay or you shall feel my wrath!  "Off belay!" You may rise now............... ;)

amarius wrote:

It counts as a redpoint if you stick clip the anchors right?

I occasionally belay from one knee (exclusively in the gym, tho). I do it because I can lean back and watch my climber without craning my neck as far as I would have to if I were standing. I don't wear belay glasses very often. I agree that it makes the belayer less mobile, so it doesn't help you to catch unexpected early falls. If my climber is sketched out at the second bolt, I often do crouch low (on both feet) so that I have more room to soften the catch. Works for me.

Standing up while paying out an armload of slack does equal two armloads of slack. YMMV.

BrianWS wrote:

This. 

Does kneeling have some benefits? Yes it does. It works, not miracles, but it does help to prevent leader-belay collision and can help to give a softer catch than standing and sitting back into a fall. Really, unless you seen or tried it (properly), there isn't much reason to malign folks who use the technique correctly. As for the claim that only inexperienced belayers kneel, take a look at my profile. I do know what I'm doing, probably more so than most folks posting suggestions otherwise.

Are there far better means for keeping the leader's ankles safe between hard moves on the first few bolts? Absolutely. That's why any technique is contextual. Stick clips outdoors, pre-clipping the bolt above a low crux in the gym are definitely safer and more reliable. 

Some pretty funny comments in this thread about something that is both simple and nuanced at the same time. 

One of the things I like about climbing is freedom - there are very few absolute rules other than watch out after you and your partner's well being.  Indeed, slavish adherence to an absolute rule is actually risk-y.  

...you need to be able to take in slack and lunge backwards

The consensus is that there is zero reason to kneel.

One of the dumber ideas I've heard of in a while. 

Is this some Noob trend or something?

 It's a stupid idea to kneel while belaying.

Just don't kneel if you belay me. 

The fact this thread is even possible cracks me up! Once again I must blame the gym.

People are leaping and cavorting and swinging all over the place and now apparently kneeling. 

"Climbing" is starting to look like the third act of cirque du solei these days!

I prefer a leaping-soft catch belay with a kneeling start myself. (except on multi-pitch)  ;) JB

^^^Perfect^^^

Sometimes from semi hanging belays I'll put my knees on the wall to take the pressure from my harness off my low back.

Once I got yelled at in a gym for sitting while belaying my buddy on a TR warmup.

I guess neither of these  instances are what this thread is about huh? 

This is guy should have been kneeling:

http://www.rockandice.com/weekend-whipper-video/near-groundfall-at-stanage-north-u-k