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HB offset nut sizing vs. DMM alloy offsets

Original Post
Slogger · · Anchorage, AK · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 80

Does anyone know if when DMM took over making the offset nuts, they adopted the same # sizing (i.e. Does a #8 HB = a #8 DMM?)

Ryan Hamilton · · Orem · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 5

I don't think so, because the DMM's only go to 0-6 in the offset brass. Of course, it might be that DMM decided to only do brass offsets up to size 6, but 0-6 match HB...hmmm.

Slogger · · Anchorage, AK · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 80

Including the DMM Alloy offsets which are sizes 7-11.

Ryan Hamilton · · Orem · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 5
Slogger wrote:

Including the DMM Alloy offsets which are sizes 7-11.

Sorry, you probably meant that all along. I was just thinking brass offsets because that's what I associate the HBs with. 

Healyje · · PDX · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 422

They're close, but not exact, which I found fairly irritating. I have a bunch of sets of HB alloys and do several climbs on a regular basis that have some 'perfect fit' placements for the #9. All the #9 HB alloys fit them like a glove and all of the same-size DMM alloys were too big for those placements. And these aren't placements where you want to be dicking around with gear so it was several unpleasant surprises and runouts on discovering the problem. In general I find it somewhat lamentable DMM didn't just keep making them exactly as they were as I don't find the DMM changes to be improvements of any kind over the originals.

But then overall it's probably not an issue if the DMMs are your first encounter with these offset nuts, however. Also, I'd rather leave the ground with DMM offsets than no offsets at all.

verticon · · Europe · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 25
Slogger wrote:

Does anyone know if when DMM took over making the offset nuts, they adopted the same # sizing (i.e. Does a #8 HB = a #8 DMM?)

 #10 DMM and #10 HB side by side

Slogger · · Anchorage, AK · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 80

Thanks for the replies folks. I recently picked up an old #8 HB from a used gear shop and it's quickly become my most used piece of passive pro. There was a placement at a crux this weekend where it barely worked when nothing else would, I think a #7 HB would've fit like a glove. I guess I'll be getting a set of DMM's.

Ryan Hamilton · · Orem · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 5

The DMM offsets, all the way from #0 up through the top of the range, really are awesome. I pair them with Wild Country rocks, the curved taper fits oh-so-nice in a lot of spots. This combo allows me to place nuts just about anywhere. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Trad Climbing
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