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Butora Acros for Cracks!
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Has anyone any experience with the Butora Acros? I'm in the market for new shoes and really enjoy that whole single strap slipper design. I was wondering how the Acros would fair in cracks considering I mostly climb with gear, but enjoy the benefits of an all-arounder shoe. |
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Seems like a cool shoe, but cracks and trad climbing is definitely not the target market for it. That shoe is more for steep sport climbing and bouldering due to the substantial downturn. A flat , comfortable shoe that doesn't have your toes curled will be best for cracks and all around trad climbing. |
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Ow ow ow. No. Don't do it. |
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I mean you theoretically could size them to where your toes are flat. That massive swab of rubber on the forefoot would probably be nice in a crack. |
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Honestly give it a go, the perception for what is a crack climbing shoe is changing go 1.5-2 sizes tighter than what would be Redpoint performance size for you |
Jon Rhoderick wrote: I see what you did there. That being said, I have used solutions in finger cracks to great effect. Honnold does too. |
Rob Warden...Space Lizard wrote: I normally climb trad with katana laces that are sized to just curl, but not "knuckle" by big toe. For a real thin finger/tips crack I actually preferred my sport sized skwamas though also. I found it easy to wiggle more rubber into those tiny pods and torque it with the soft rubber and more "chiseled" side profile of the toe. Good god I would never want to jam hand cracks with them though. |
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Yeah, I tried a few hand-sized jams in my Solutions...ow. Also caused some delam and damage to the toe patch...this more than anything is why I really would not recommend this. You don't need extra rubber for jamming and it's much less durable than regular uppers. Finger cracks make sense. |
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Haha whoops, maybe shouldn't comment minutes after sharing a spliff... |
