Climbing routes based on star ratings

• So when I go to an area I usually choos my routs based on star ratings. I won't even consider getting on a rt if it doesent have at least 2 stars. My question is this a good approach or should I consider one star routes as well? This goes for trad or sport old area or new. 

It depends on if you like to climb what the masses like to climb, how crowded the area is, and are there enough 2+ star routes in the area that are within your desired climbing range.

I have done routes that are not as highly rated as neighboring climbs that I have enjoyed every bit as much as the "classic" next door, but, for the most part, highly rated routes are highly rated for a reason.  If you are looking for options and are in the area, examine the route before dismissing it out of hand because it is not highly rated.

I find star ratings here on MP to be somewhat accurate on how fun a route will be, but only if many people have ticked it. There's lots of first ascents entered here where the FA party gives it 4 stars hoping to get people to try their route, so be weary of number of ticks. If a lot of people have ticked it and the thing has 1 star, there is a reason.

Guidebooks are all over the place, until I've climbed a lot in the area I really won't know if I agree with the authors star. I've been on shit 4 star book routes and really fun zero star routes. 

Get on what looks cool to you. There are some great lesser done climbs out there. 

You're missing out on some good climbs that way. I've climbed plenty of routes with multiple stars that I thought were total garbage and thoroughly enjoyed myself on zero star routes. Use ratings as guide. I find descriptions to be a lot more revealing about the quality of a route than the stars.

1. BBQ. How do you decide what routs to get on. Just by looking them, route description or recommendation from someone whose done it?

I find a certain sense adventure and satisfaction with doing 0 star routes that are total choss. Not all the time of course but sometimes it can be fun. You just have to know what you're getting into. 

Todd Bruns wrote:

1. BBQ. How do I decide what routs to get on. Just by looking them, route description or recommendation from someone whose done it?

hey troll...all three...derp.
climb what looks fun, esp if its your style.
for instance; i can climb stemming routes at a much higher level than techy face/or steep overhanging stuff, and I enjoy stemming far more too (im short with powerful legs...). And I like stemming because its fun to me (i always climbed doorways as a kid).

or like the guidebook at smith gave some trad route there 2 stars and then said ' this route is the site of gear pulling ankle breaking falls.
so i didnt do it... yep, im a coward ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
fuck your stars, i like my ankles...

Downtownt Kay wrote:

hey troll...all three...derp.
climb what looks fun, esp if its your style.
for instance; i can climb stemming routes at a much higher level than techy face/or steep overhanging stuff, and I enjoy stemming far more too (im short with powerful legs...). And I like stemming because its fun to me (i always climbed doorways as a kid).

or like the guidebook at smith gave some trad route there 2 stars and then said ' this route is the site of gear pulling ankle breaking falls.
so i didnt do it... yep, im a coward ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
fuck your stars, i like my ankles...

I plan my day with an increasing level of difficulty in mind, if I'm climbing toward a goal or project. Then, since I climb at a very crowded area I have a plan B & C.  To be sure of a good day I pick climbs by where ( how close to the ground, & to the difficulties) the 1st bomb proof pro is.  I like to start the day on hard well protected climbs.

I work up to more risky leads, timing them with when I feel my strongest(pitch 3,4,5) so, I warm up a bit then head to the highest grade of the day  then plan to warm-down, end the day near a harder than I can Climb Top rope.

Or, I pick a line that looks interesting, 

NO GUIDE BOOK - OR BETA, ONSIGHT, GROUND UP.

 I like most to climb in an obscure un-recorded zone where every climb is one that I did the 1st ascent of. . .

There is a crew of hard climbers here in Salt Lake that get out once a week to climb 0 start routes. What do they find? Lots of great routes that just don't get climbed much. I'm with you the 3 and 4 star routes are usually pretty good. But I've had plenty of fun on lower rated routes too. 

4* = touron's

0* = locos only bruh

I'd say the star ratings are worth following, especially on the low end.  I've gotten on some 1-stars because I was desperate and/or looking for a warmup, and I've usually regretted it.  As far as the difference between 2&3 or 3&4...meh.  I've done some 2 star routes that I liked better than 4 star classics, but most of the time I find ratings fairly appropriate.