High Sierra Climbing Conditions This Summer

Anyone have any guesses about the conditions for climbing in the High Sierra this summer with all the snow? Places like the Sawtooth Ridge area or the palisades and the surrounding peaks.

Thanks!

Take crampons

Crampons and ice axe until late season I would imagine. Also the infamous Sierra suncups - bad on the approach, a horror on the descent! Also plagues of mozzies stretching into late season.

That's my prediction.

ur gunna die?

Pay attention to these this summer and make your own guesses. 

https://www.nohrsc.noaa.gov/nsa/?region=Sierras

http://www.cnrfc.noaa.gov/ol.php?type=snow

Summers are so dry there really won't be any more/less wetness on the vast majority of rock routes once you get on them, but "spring" condition will be July.

There will be more snow at the bases of things than you may have previously experienced. The highest passes will have a shit ton of snow in July.

Just substitute about 1-2 months later for how soon anything was previously "in condition" as compared to drought years and things that had/nearly melted out completely will be in prime condition late.

Skiing in Ellery Bowl until July if you like.

Dana Couloir not water ice until Fall etc.

I hiked up to Second Lake two weeks ago. I started with crampons once I was past the falls but up toward Lon Chaney started post holding up to my mid thigh... Luckily I had snow shoes also. Temple Crag ... Ice and snow mix. Storm clouds rolled in so I couldn't get a good look at Palisades. 

Dena Eaton wrote:

I hiked up to Second Lake two weeks ago. I started with crampons once I was past the falls but up toward Lon Chaney started post holding up to my mid thigh... Luckily I had snow shoes also. Temple Crag ... Ice and snow mix. Storm clouds rolled in so I couldn't get a good look at Palisades. 

How far can you drive on the road to glacier lodge? Thinking about skiing into palisades...

I'd call the Glacier Lodge and see if they can get up yet. The owners were walking up when I was coming down. There was minimal snow, but they had the road blocked at the main Inyo sign - before the campgrounds begin. (1.5-2miles from the TH)  I don't think there is any reason to not have it open by now!

Road is clear to Glacier Lodge, which is not open. Snow begins almost immediately into South Fork and is dry trail to Second Fall in North Fork, snow after that. 

Ryan Huetter wrote:

Road is clear to Glacier Lodge, which is not open. Snow begins almost immediately into South Fork and is dry trail to Second Fall in North Fork, snow after that. 

Awesome, many thanks.