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Solo Top Rope - Petzl Microcender

Original Post
Josh K · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 49

In the quest to obtain the gear required to solo top rope, I ran across almost everyone in old forum posts using the Petzl Microcender as either the primary or backup device. From what I can tell, it seems to be the perfect tool for it - toothless, lightweight, gives a little on falls to absorb the impact. The only problem is, I can't find the dang thing anywhere! Does anyone know where I could buy one, or what a good toothless alternative is? 

Ultimately I'm going to be lapping solo top rope very many times over the course of several months, so I really want a toothless primary device so my sheathing doesn't get chewed up after continuous use (and inevitably occasional falls). I already have a Petzl Basic (toothed ascender) as a backup.

Kevin Mcbride · · Canmore AB · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 505

I think it got axed. Just buy the rescuecender, I use it as my backup device and its great, but it did slip about 5 feet on me once when the rope was wet and it fuzzed the shit of a 4 inch section. On a side note, don't worry too much about toothed devices, I put in about 15-25 laps on my micro trax per week and I dont notice any actual damage.

Josh K · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 49
Kevin Mcbride wrote:

I think it got axed. Just buy the rescuecender, I use it as my backup device and its great, but it did slip about 5 feet on me once when the rope was wet and it fuzzed the shit of a 4 inch section. On a side note, don't worry too much about toothed devices, I put in about 15-25 laps on my micro trax per week and I dont notice any actual damage.

Thanks for the help, I'll probably go with the rescucender as you suggested. Any tips on quickly switching to a repel setup?

Jason Ringenberg · · South Lake Tahoe · Joined May 2016 · Points: 0

I use the mini trax with knot backups and it works fine for me. No problems with damaging the rope or anything. 

Chalk in the Wind · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 3

I have a spare Microcender I am willing to sell. If you're interested, please PM me so I can send pics and we can discuss price.

Kevin Mcbride · · Canmore AB · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 505
Josh K wrote:

Thanks for the help, I'll probably go with the rescucender as you suggested. Any tips on quickly switching to a repel setup?

I just put my grigri on the secondary line then pop off the micro trax and rescuecender.

Pavel Burov · · Russia · Joined May 2013 · Points: 50
Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 3,492

Just use the Basic as your primary, and clip knots in a second strand every 10-20 feet as backup.  I've put 15+ years on my Basic and it's never failed to catch me.  Never so much as pulled a single sheath yarn either.

JCM · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 115
Josh K wrote:

Thanks for the help, I'll probably go with the rescucender as you suggested. Any tips on quickly switching to a repel setup?

 I have a rescuecender that I'd be willing to sell. $35 plus $5 shipping? 

It's a good TR solo device. Best to use it on top, with the toothed device below as backup. It is fine to use both on the same strand.

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 3,492
JCM wrote:

It's a good TR solo device. Best to use it on top, with the toothed device below as backup. It is fine to use both on the same strand.

Absolutely critical that any cam-loaded device (Rescucender, Microcender, Shunt, Gibbs etc) NOT be run as the backup below another device.  If the top device fails to grab the rope, it'll slide down and drive the lower device down the rope.  The cam-loaded devices need to be loaded on the cam, never on the body.

Just another reason for the Basic Ascender IMO. 

JCM · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 115

^^^^ This is correct. Rescuecender, microcender, etc must be the top device.

Josh K · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 49

I just bought a Microcender, from what you guys are saying it looks like I should be using the Microcender as the primary and the toothed Basic as the backup? If the Basic is the backup, couldnt that really hurt the rope if it's shockloaded? They'll both be on different strands of the rope, so the primary shouldn't drive the backup down in case of failure.

Pavel Burov · · Russia · Joined May 2013 · Points: 50

After (if) your backup device were shockloaded the last thing you would worry about is your rope.

Chalk in the Wind · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 3

I think their point is about the single strand, Josh. Most people on two strands with two devices go teeth on the primary and cam on the secondary as you plan and Petzl recommends.

https://www.petzl.com/US/en/Sport/Setting-up-a-self-belay-system-on-two-ropes-with-two-ascenders?ActivityName=Multi-pitch-climbing#.WO1gLOFOnMI

JCM · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 115
Robert Michael wrote:

I think their point is about the single strand, Josh. Most people on two strands with two devices go teeth on the primary and cam on the secondary as you plan and Petzl recommends.

https://www.petzl.com/US/en/Sport/Setting-up-a-self-belay-system-on-two-ropes-with-two-ascenders?ActivityName=Multi-pitch-climbing#.WO1gLOFOnMI

Yes, that is correct.

Also, assuming you are on a dynamic rope with plenty of rope out, the "shock load" from a 18 inch TR fall is basically nothing.

Shane Markus · · Index, WA · Joined Nov 2016 · Points: 5
JCM wrote:

 I have a rescuecender that I'd be willing to sell. $35 plus $5 shipping? 

It's a good TR solo device. Best to use it on top, with the toothed device below as backup. It is fine to use both on the same strand.

Still interested in selling the rescucender? I'm in Seattle, too, and would be stoked to buy it from you.

Shane

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 3,492

While we're offering gear... I have a nearly new Petzl Basic ascender (last year's model - the one Petzl approved for TR self belay) which I'll sell for the same $35 + 5 shipping as that rescucender that JCM's offering.

tooTALLtim · · Vanlife · Joined Apr 2007 · Points: 1,806

I tried out the Kong Back-Up as toothless-alternative. Check out my review here.

eli poss · · Durango, CO · Joined May 2014 · Points: 525
tooTALLtim wrote:

I tried out the Kong Back-Up as toothless-alternative. Check out my review here.

You resurrected an old thread to post click-bait? C'mon dude...

tooTALLtim · · Vanlife · Joined Apr 2007 · Points: 1,806

My intention was to point people in the right direction if they came across this thread looking for "...so I really want a toothless primary device" like the OP did. I thought my review to be on-topic and useful, and that this thread would quickly go back to the annals of time..from less than a year ago :P

Jared M · · Oakland, CA · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 145
eli poss wrote:

You resurrected an old thread to post click-bait? C'mon dude...

It's a link to his comprehensive review in another MP thread. Clickbait? C'mon dude...

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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