Grades Rushmore /Needles trad routes compared to Gunks?

Had been toying with the idea of taking the family out to SD and into WY climbing our way from PA on out.  (It's a toss up so far between that and heading to Colorado!)

Just feeling out the areas...venues...and how grades run vs an area I'm more familiar with personally, the Gunks in NY.  I climb up to 5.10 sport and so far 5.7-5.8 trad.  Really only interested in trad lines on this trip.

Thanks all in advance!

You will find the grades on par with the Gunks. Many of the same climbers like the Conns put these routes up. You will also find many routes are not as protectable as you will get in the Gunks. It is great climbing, but don't go there with the mindset that western grades are soft. You won't find this in The Needles.

Good luck and enjoy.

You will have nothing but fun and be overwhelmed by how much there is to climb in SD. Mount Rushmore and Custer state park! To much fun!

Michael S. Catlett wrote:

You will find the grades on par with the Gunks. Many of the same climbers like the Conns put these routes up. You will also find many routes are not as protectable as you will get in the Gunks. It is great climbing, but don't go there with the mindset that western grades are soft. You won't find this in The Needles.

Good luck and enjoy.

Yeah not knowing the area I'd have no idea if grades were or par, harder, softer or what!

Thanks for the info, much appreciated!

Best guidebooks fo the areas?  Suggestions?

The book by Andrew and Andrew is great and well worth the money. They did a fantastic job and it's full color with great descriptions. Feel free to PM me about any questions in the rushmore/ Custer state park area. There is a separate guidebook for Custer but it's pretty terrible. 

Cheers

https://www.fixedpin.com/collections/climbing/products/the-needles-of-rushmore

Thanks!