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How To Get Cams for Indian Creek?

Original Post
Andrew L · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 0

Just curious if the more experienced had any great advice on how to find enough cams to climb some awesome routes in Indian Creek? I am just starting out in trad, and will be at Indian Creek for a few weeks, but I do not know when I would might make it back in the future. I am certain that many others have been in my same spot where you do not want to buy a ton of cams that you may never need again, so curious to know other people's ideas. 

Thanks

Chase Bowman · · Durango, CO · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 1,010

Troll?

just ask around your friends man or try to meet some people around the campsites there if you can climb with them.

grog m · · Saltlakecity · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 70

When asking strangers to borrow gear it obviously depends person to person...people might not let you lead with their gear (No offense but I wouldnt want you getting my gear stuck) but if I had a TR set up then by all means ask and I will let you take a ride. Or if I had the gear in place and was hanging out I might let you take a burn on it. 

Otherwise you will have to hunt out routes that take a variety of cam sizes. There are plenty at the creek that you can get away with doubles and triples of things. 

Edit - some example routes - chocolate corner, unknown 5.9 to the right of chocolate corner, Owl crack if you have triples, twin cracks

Optimistic · · New Paltz · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 450

Borrowing from partners at home is definitely a key part of it. I'd guess I brought 10 or 15 borrowed cams last time I went to IC, and in addition was traveling with another partner who was out for a year and brought an extensive rack. 

The other thing is that you can pick a size to focus on. It sounds like you're just getting started, so I'd say that gold and blue camalots would be your first thing to double or triple up on.

But I get the sense that you're just miles away from having enough gear yourself and don't know a ton of other trad climbers, so I think that Grog's suggestion about getting out there and being social at the base of the crags is really the way to go. Bring your rack so that you can fill in other people's racks so they can put something up for both of you. MARK your gear. Read Kent Pease's book. Tape up before you do anything on day 1 or you'll be a bloody mess. Have fun!

Andrew L · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 0

Thank you all so much for the replies. I really appreciate the input and I will start hunting people at home who might have some gear to spare for a few weeks. 

Ryan Hamilton · · Orem · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 5

Yep, I have a buddy that used to borrow my rack every time he went to the creek. I let him because I knew he wouldn't trash my gear and if he got something stuck or broken he would replace it. 

highaltitudeflatulentexpulsion · · Colorado · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 35

It's not difficult to find people here that are selling off their rigid friends rather cheap. They are light and reliable. In a place like the creek, are pretty much on par with even the newest cams out there.

Tyler Wood · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2017 · Points: 0

Don't even joke about hunting no man...

I was hunted once. I'd just came back from 'Nam. I was hitching through Oregon and some cop started harassing me. Next thing you know, I had a whole army of cops chasing me through the woods! I had to take 'em all out--it was a bloodbath!

highaltitudeflatulentexpulsion · · Colorado · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 35
Tyler Wood wrote:

Don't even joke about hunting no man...

I was hunted once. I'd just came back from 'Nam. I was hitching through Oregon and some cop started harassing me. Next thing you know, I had a whole army of cops chasing me through the woods! I had to take 'em all out--it was a bloodbath!

I believe you might be misremembering how it happened. https://flowingdata.com/2008/02/22/rambo-kill-counts-from-parts-i-ii-iii-and-iv/

Andrew L · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 0

Hey thanks everyone for the input! I really appreciate it. I have begun asking and have found that a few of the people I know have already loaned out their cams to a party heading to Indian Creek... such is life haha. Thank you all very much. 

Em Cos · · Boulder, CO · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 5

So go meet up with that group! Sounds perfect. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern Utah Deserts
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