I'll try to keep this quick (I failed) but feel free to skip sections or ask questions, thanks in advance. I'm mostly looking for suggestions of my (non-climbing) gym "pulling" routine, feel free to skip to that section in the box below.
Goals: Come back from my injury with stronger fingers and more powerful pulling muscles.
My injury:
I have a chronic hip condition (FAI + Labral tears) that I've been ignoring for years, that led to a stress fracture in my femoral head, crutches, no climbing etc.I have now healed from the fracture (walking around but no climbing, running, jumping) but in a 11 days I will be getting relatively minor surgery to resolve the underlying issue in my hip and will be recovering (no climbing) for another 3 months.
My climbing history:
Obsessed with climbing for the past 6 years or so. Essentially only climb outdoors, never trained (before my injury), never really bouldered (power is a definite weakness), but have ton's of mileage on a variety of terrain. Onsights up to 12a sport and 11c trad (not really a project-er) mostly on techy/balancy/endurance type of routes (NOT POWER).
My routine so far (past couple months):
Day 1: Hangoard Routine (Anderson Bro's beginner routine)
Day 2: Push or Pull day at the gym (alternating)
Day 3: Rest.
Repeat.
In more detail:
Hangboarding: I'm honestly pretty happy with my routine here, I'm seeing steady gains so I don't feel the need to make changes. Skip if you want.
Warmup: Shoulder shrugs/circles 10-15 each way around, some band stuff opening up shoulders, "dislocates" with a broom handle, some simple finger movements. I then "hang" for 7 minutes on mostly the jug subtracting 32lbs with a pulley and putting toes down often, shaking out etc. This is my pretend traversing warmup.
Workout: It's 10s on 5s off for 6 reps on 8 holds, 3 min rest between. Again, pretty happy with this as I've been improving. I am taking a slow approach to increasing the resistance since I'm new to training, have plenty of time, and don't want to add a finger injury to the mix. I won't increase resistance until l could have kept hanging on that hold for 2 workouts in a row (if that makes sense).
Recover: Stretch, massage, icing forearm/elbow.
Gym Routine: Would love some suggestions here for getting more climbing specific and improving power (I don't have access to a campus board and can't "fall"). I would also like to consolidate the Push/Pull into one day so that I can train the muscle groups more often.
Warmup: 10 minutes of cycling for heart rate then a shoulder warmup (copied from above) shoulder shrugs/circles 10-15 each way around, some band stuff opening up shoulders, "dislocates" with a broom handle.
PULL DAY:
One Arm Lat Pull Downs 3x8: This is with each arm with a 2 second lock off at full contraction. While I feel like these are climbing specific, splitting my arms up takes more time and requires me to "try hard" twice as often. Considering a two armed Lat Pull Down with a Frenchie style lockoff cycle. By the way, I can get 3x8-10 full pull ups on a good day or 2ish frenchie cycles. I feel like using the lat pull down machine will allow me to to stress the muscles more by lowering the resistance but increasing the number of cycles, thoughts?
One Arm Row 3x8: This is with each arm with a 2 second lock off at full contraction.Would love to switch to a 2 arm exercise. Thoughts for specificity? Lock off cycle?
Bicep curls 3x8: 2nd Amendment.
Forearm supported leg raises 3x15ish: This is pretty much my only core work (probably not enough). I'm not sure what I'll be able to do after my surgery, I'm open to suggestions of core exercises that are easy on the hips (if that's possible...)
PUSH DAY: perhaps too much pushing for a climber?
Dips 3x10-12
Dumbbell Bench Press 3x8
Overhead Dumbbell Shoulder Press 3x8
Tricep extension/pull down thing 3x8
Forearm supported leg raises 3x15ish
Well that got long. I have a lot of time on my hands... Thanks for any advice and enjoy climbing for me!
-Kevin