Falcon Guides' "Rock Climbing Utah" guidebook?
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Hi everyone, |
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If you're wanting to climb in the SLC area I would pick up "A Granite Guide" it's the new book covering Ferguson to Lone Peak in great detail. The Falcon Guide Climbing Utah is in fact a cliff notes version of the climbing the the area. The information on Mountain Project for Big and Little Cottonwood is good and should help you find some crags while you're here. Good luck and enjoy. |
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You really need to first decide on where you might want to go. At the end of summer the sandstone rock around Moab and S. Utah is hot, damn hot, real hot. Many people will be avoiding the granite in Little Cottonwood in Salt Lake because it is south facing. Further up canyon and on the north side is better or places like Maple or American fork (were they will be people with the local guide book to poach from). |
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I second broken chairs. Mountain project documents the routes pretty good and you may not even need a guide book. If you do get a book, granite guide is the best, but it doesn't cover big cottonwood. Are you climbing trad, sport, multipitch? What grade? |
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Wow! Your answers came so quickly guys! Thanks so much! :) |
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What are you looking for in terms of peak bagging? |
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Dany Tancou wrote:When you say "grab topos for longer routes"... do you mean from the guidebooks?If there are some specific routes you wanted to do that were longer I would get the full topo description from MP. If just a crag with lots of routes I would just print out an overview picture and enough details to get yourself to the crag and the routes you want to climb. Again from MP. Though a great book I would not suggest buying the new Granite guide for someone who is visiting for a few days. |
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Austin Baird wrote:What are you looking for in terms of peak bagging?I honestly don't know.. yet. :) I did order "60 Hikes within 60 Miles of Salt Lake City" though, so I'm sure we'll fine at least a couple from there. Aside from that, we typically just look at Google Maps, look at peak names, research them and eventually find stuff we like. But, of course, I would welcome any suggestions -- as long as I don't get in trouble for hijacking a rock climbing forum with such questions. In terms of peak bagging "experience", we're not beginners.. We climbed a bunch of 13ers and 14ers in Colorado (Sherman, Sneffels, Notch, Holy Cross, Princeton, Matterhorn, Wetterhorn) and a bunch of high peaks in Europe as well (Breithorn, near the Matterhorn in Switzerland, most of the 3000m+ peaks around Innsbruck, Austria, and many of the peaks around Chamonix, France, which didn't require pro). Essentially we're good for up to grade 3+ scrambling and exposure is not a problem (as long as it's safe), but we haven't yet learned how to scramble safely in Class 4 terrain. Actually, hoping that maybe we can find a guide in SLC who may be able to take us out one day and show us all that stuff. Thanks! Dany |
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If you want a couple of peaks the S. Ridge of Superior is good fun. The approach is killer. Park the car cross the road and you are at the base. The more adventuresome will chalk up and do the sit start (snicker, snicker, inside local's joke). If you want a bit more of an approach and alpine look at the N. Ridge of the Pfeifferhorn. A great full day adventure. |
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I second the S ridge of Superior. There's also great sport climbing at the Hellgate Cliffs just East of Mt. Superior. |
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Worth taking a look at the Uinta mountains too. Higher elevation, lots of sport climbing in your range, lakes, peaks, car camping. |
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Hellgate area has tons of sport routes, and it is some of the best protected climbs I've ever done. There is a really good sport multipitch called Hellgate Highway 5.8. The area is definitely not sand bagged at all either. Big Cottonwood has a good bit of sport climbing and usually well protected. Check out Challenge Buttress, S-Curves, Glass Ocean, Ambush Wall. I have the 60 hikes in 60 miles book too. Broad Forks Twin Peaks is a good 3rd class scramble, and it is in that book. Mt Olympus has a good scramble too. Also, American Fork Twin Peaks is a really fun scramble. You can skip the approach hike and ride the Snowbird tram up straight to the fun part. |