Gym setting for competitions

At my gym on the Front Range, they shut down virtually all of the climbing 3-4 days ahead of the competition.

I understand that they need to shut down sections of wall as the competition date gets closer, but shutting down ALL of the climbing ALL week because it is 'easier for them to set' really upsets me as a paying member who couldn't give a crap about competitions.

Is this normal? I can't see big chain gyms like Momentum screwing their paying customers mid-week, several times a year.

Yes, it is normal. As of yesterday, all of our bouldering and lead climbing is shut down through
Sunday for comp setting. Afterwards, we'll only have comp routes/problems, as everything is stripped. The hang boards, campus board and systems do remain open however. It is what it is.

I would argue the big gyms do it more often and close a larger area because they host bigger competitions. Movement in downtown Denver closed off a huge part of their lead cave for a whole week because they hosted the sport climbing nationals.

Don't get me wrong, it totally sucks if you're not into that scene. However, a lot of people like competitions particularly the younger/youth crowd which is a substantial part of a gym's membership base.

Momentum recently had there bouldering league comp. They roped off and reset about half the bouldering area for the comp, the other half remained open during setting and reopened to the public when it was set. Those who were in the league were not allowed to climb the comp problems before the comp. After the comp they filled in the rest of the wall. It only effected half the bouldering area for 1 day. Then again they set weekly, they rope off only the area they are setting.

Momentum is a huge gym and have plenty of wall space to set in this manor. I could imagine a small gym shutting down for a comp if they need the space.

Paying $70 per month and then not being able to climb when the gym is open is annoying. I'm a member of a gym that does monthly events, and it drives me absolutely nuts.

Having helped set for a comp at a small university gym, there are two points to keep in mind:

First, the problems for the comp have to be all new, and kept off limits to everyone until the comp.

Second, no one is allowed in the gym during setting anyway, for safety reasons, and we all have to be wearing helmets while in the gym, if someone is setting.

Yeah, something that is more than once a year would be a pain, but once or twice a year seems reasonable, as does an occasional closure for training or maintenance. This isn't a coffee store, it's a place that needs close attention to maintenance of the physical structure for safety's sake, and a staff that's up to snuff.

Plus, if the regular setters are setting the comp, it's a chance to stretch their limits and creativity. They might not have that opportunity doing the regular stuff, and you directly benefit.

And, if a comp ramps up the customer base, that helps keep your gym in business. I doubt they're making a killing off of your membership. Unlike that cup of Joe.

Best, OLH

Given the parking and the crowds, I doubt Movement Denver will see much a membership boost as a result of hosting nationals.

If it was supposed to be a membership drive instead of a prestige thing, where is my tote bag?

Hate it. And hate comp style setting.

Think of it in these terms. Me and my spouse pay about 110 per month for a couples membership. A gym team kid pays 80 per month to be a gym member, another 80 per month to be on the climbing team, and then some extra for additional individual coaching. Now tell me who the true revenue source is?