Spring '17 list of dry Yosemite climbs - Post em up!
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We were talking about dry routes over on a 'Spring Break in Yosemite' thread, but so many people are asking I think it'll be great to have one thread where folks can post up what they've been climbing and how the conditions are. |
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Or you could go directly to the NPS website for closures: |
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Serenity/sons was dry this week, as was superslide. Royal arches was Ok except the traverse, and the scary top "3rd class" slab. You have to go outside on the lower pitches, as the "creek" is running. Raps on arches are waterfalls, so walk off. |
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Awesome! |
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Anyone know about the approach/descent for Watkins? Is there a ton of snow still on top? |
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Anybody heard anything about Braille Book or the other Cathedral climbs? I'm anticipating snow higher up, but maybe Central Pillar would be ok. Thoughts? |
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1st pitch of Central Pillar can be wet in spots. Given how much snow was down last week, there is probably a big snow cone at the base (minor inconvenience). North side is a better bet. Absolute Free Center would be a good alternative to Central. |
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"Anyone know about the approach/descent for Watkins? Is there a ton of snow still on top?" |
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First pitch of absolutely free is a waterfall. 3rd pitch of nutcracker is pretty wet but manageable. Astroboy (first 3p astroman) is dry enough but lots of water dropping from the upper pitches. Toe Joe and Mecca were climbable lastweek. Poison oak is start to take over down canyon so watch out. |
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I'm planning on going to Yosemite in about 2 weeks and staying for a month. Do you guys think there will be enough dry climbing? I'm a beginning trad leader and am just looking to gain some experience with trad and crack climbing. |
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Ethan Judd wrote:I'm planning on going to Yosemite in about 2 weeks and staying for a month. Do you guys think there will be enough dry climbing? I'm a beginning trad leader and am just looking to gain some experience with trad and crack climbing.Sorry Ethan, impossible to predict. Could be gorgeous, or snow every other day. If I wanted to get LOTS of trad experience I would go J-tree as a beginner like many of us did. Far more moderates to do there than the Valley and more stable weather in the Spring. Super easy to get mileage throwing cams and nuts in cracks, which is what you need if you are new to leading on gear. If it gets hot drive up the East Side to Owens River Gorge and between there and other East Side crags tons to do and beautiful in the Spring. |
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King Tut wrote: Sorry Ethan, impossible to predict. Could be gorgeous, or snow every other day. If I wanted to get LOTS of trad experience I would go J-tree as a beginner. Far more moderates to do there than the Valley and more stable weather in the Spring. If it gets hot drive up the East Side to Owens River Gorge and between there and other East Side crags tons to do and beautiful in the Spring.This. And how beginner? If you are 5.9 beginner, the valley will work for you. 5.6....hit the east side. |
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Hey |
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I think I know the answer, but anybody know how Superslide looks right now? |
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I think I know the answer, but anybody how does Superslide look right now? I'm guess the whole of the Royal Arches areas is very wet, but can anyone confirm? I don't honestly know but thought I would add that the RA area (other than cascades) dries out faster than nearly anything in the Upper Valley. After a few days of sun it is generally climbable year round. |
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Kevin Moss wrote:I think I know the answer, but anybody how does Superslide look right now? I'm guess the whole of the Royal Arches areas is very wet, but can anyone confirm?I have been known to call the mountain shop and ask. When they are not super busy, they have been known to be somewhat personable. Spoke w/2 rangers last week, who did not know what Ranger Rock is (manure pile), did not know if there was snow on the east butt, and did not know....much. SO much for engaged. |
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Friday 3/31 - Glacier point apron - The Grack and surrounding climbs were totally dry. Dont know the area well but there are rivers coming down the areas north of the Grack. Sat 4/1 - Munginella. First pitch was dry. Second pitch was very wet. 3rd looked dry. Party in from of us French Free'd the 2nd. We bailed. Sat 4/1 - Swan slab gully. First pitch is dry-ish. Alternates are dry. If you can do the first pitch the rest is fine. 2nd is wet but 4th class move are now maybe an east 5th. 3rd is dry. |
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4/1/17 (no joke) Super Slide was amazing and we were the first party on it. There were wet sections, notably, the crack just before the end of the second pitch and a few spots at the around each subsequent belay. Totally doable. Saw some folks rapping Royal Arches and they said it was quite dry up to about the 6th pitch, which is where they bailed. Also talked to a few desert rats who, for their first valley climb ever, said CPF has snow 2/3rds up the first pitch which made for an exciting step to the crack and immediate placement. I'll be giving that one a week or more to dry out. |
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How about Sunny Side Bench Regular Route prospects for first week of may? |
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Cody Cox KC wrote: Should be good, but the upper slabs on the walk off may be very wet. More storms at least once a week still on the schedule. |
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CraigNAllen wrote: Be advised that the walk off of the 5 Open Books (to the West) is often a running cascade early in the Spring. This requires rappels instead of downclimbing when they are running. |