The Nose Rack

Dear Big Wall Specialists,

In the awesome Big Wall Photo Thread posted ChrissCW this cool pic of their NIAD rack:

i dont know if this is what was done but ... i know some people use tiblocs when simul climbing and leave the tibloc on random pieces so that if the second falls, it doesnt pull the leader, they just top rope fall onto said piece.

I suspect they are used when the climbers are simul climbing. If the second should fall, a Tribloc will stop his fall before he pulls the leader off the rock.

In actuality, the guys who are really pushing the time record, sub 4 hours, never use this technique. The Triblocs are pretty much going to shred the rope, and the Nose can easily be done in less than 10 hours without simul climbing. Doing the Nose in a day is really not that difficult and simul climbing is unnecessary.

Thanks for your answer. This could be the solution. But some time ago, i saw a vid of some crazy guys (I think they were from czech rep.?) try a backuped fall on a Petzl Croll to see what will happens to the rope. It was crazy! And preatty scary.

Has a rope ever actually completely failed because someone fell while simulling with a Tibloc in the system? Short of complete failure, it seems like a shredded rope would be almost always preferable to the leader being pulled off unexpectedly while simuling, no?

I don't believe Tribloc has every completely cut a rope, I don't see how it could, but, given the original post, there is no need for simul climbing and therefore Triblocs on a NAID ascent.