How To Get Asked Out on a Second Date

Old lady H wrote: Then leave this thread alone.

no.

It is called *cough* sarcasm. A magical place where jokes can run rampant. Might be good climbing there too. No trad though.... darn.

^^^^^

I use 2 PAS(es?) for jugging. That's like following, right? Am I gonna DIE???!!!

lenore sparks wrote: no. It is called *cough* sarcasm. A magical place where jokes can run rampant. Might be good climbing there too. No trad though.... darn.

Uhhh...so I suppose if I look at your page I'll find an accomplished trad climber? And I've just rope soloed up my own petard?

Hyperbole and sarcasm both add to the descriptive quality and make it a bit more entertaining.
The more to keep those here entertained than to disparage anyone.
Although sometimes it is a case of the blind leading the blind around here.

At just a smidgen over 5 ft 2 I suffer from too short to.
Lynn hill and Jody Rozin two women who climbed at the highest levels had some climbs shut them down, other times they found intermediate smears for the feet to press up the extra needed inches.

The old skool ethic is dying a tortured lengthy death but a cheat stick is just that.

You can make a safe cheat stick out of a stiff wire hanger, with a lightly taped open gate on the clipping side 'biner.

Double wrap the wire of the hanger with cloth tape and then slip it inside a length of 9/16 tubular webbing.

I know that there is a clipping holder thingy that is also well loved by others of us vertically challenged .

Also I'll try to post a pic,
From google images Geniues carabiner by Stubia,
Made a great do it yourself stick clip..

So, I assume the above alternatives also are fine when seconding and cleaning a trad route? Clip into whatever biner the rope is in?

And, I'm assuming the lead is going to prefer I haul my butt up there, somehow, without taking all day about it.

Old lady H wrote:So, I assume the above alternatives also are fine when seconding and cleaning a trad route? Clip into whatever biner the rope is in? And, I'm assuming the lead is going to prefer I haul my butt up there, somehow, without taking all day about it.

Why would you clip in to it while seconding? Are you aiding or just assuming you'll have to hang on every piece?

To answer your question, it's fine. If you hang on it a lot or fall on it a lot, the duct tape loses it's grip and the stiffy gets a little floppier.

highaltitudeflatulentexpulsion wrote: Why would you clip in to it while seconding? Are you aiding or just assuming you'll have to hang on every piece? To answer your question, it's fine. If you hang on it a lot or fall on it a lot, the duct tape loses it's grip and the stiffy gets a little floppier.

Being a second on multipitch that is too hard, for whatever reason. Although, being short kinda follows me around on all my climbs. My original question, in keeping with rgold's excellent sticky, is theoretical for me, as I haven't climbed any multi yet, but I sure as heck can grasp that noobs could get lead into difficulties. And, reach has already caused some surprises in my very short climbing career. :-)

On trad you can also replace gear that you have cleaned and hang on it to get through a crux.

Michael Schneider wrote:At just a smidgen over 5 ft 2 I suffer from too short to. Lynn hill and Jody Rozin two women who climbed at the highest levels had some climbs shut them down, other times they found intermediate smears for the feet to press up the extra needed inches.

As Lynn told me and my GF (now wife, who, at 5'4" is only two inches taller than her) so many decades ago in the Gunks: there are no reach problems, just power problems. Of course this can mean that the climb is a grade or two or three harder than for a taller climber. Yes, some climbs do shut down shorter climbers pretty easily, but there are also many climbs that are much easier for shorter climbers. Just as one person's sketchy, rattly ring-lock jam is secure thin hands jamming for another.

Marc801 wrote: As Lynn told me and my GF (now wife, who, at 5'4" is only two inches taller than her) so many decades ago in the Gunks: there are no reach problems, just power problems. Of course this can mean that the climb is a grade or two or three harder than for a taller climber. Yes, some climbs do shut down shorter climbers pretty easily, but there are also many climbs that are much easier for shorter climbers. Just as one person's sketchy, rattly ring-lock jam is secure thin hands jamming for another.

Wow! So I should claim 5.13b as my hardest climb, eh?

I actually think, having really slick columnar basalt as my home "crag", that I will be quite pleasantly surprised when/if I get to climb the other rock types. "Smearing", here, is largely wishful desperation.

Glad you got to meet one of the best climbers ever, IMO.

Thanks, as always, for all the encouragement, everyone! Best, H.

Old lady H wrote:Glad you got to meet one of the best climbers ever, IMO.

I was in the Gunks most weekends from March to November from 73-ish to 2000. It was a much smaller community then, so it was pretty easy to meet all of us regulars. I could name drop mercilessly, but I try to avoid that.

Marc801 wrote: there are no reach problems, just power problems. Of course this can mean that the climb is a grade or two or three harder than for a taller climber.

totally true, same as knowing that most short people have a higher vertical leap than tall people. playing basketball for many years taught me that, just because I could dunk easier didnt mean a short person couldnt block my attempt.
streamable.com/x55s

If this thing is going the way of height. My wife is 4'9". She routinely onsights 12a, and she's a full time student. When life isn't so much in the way she's even stronger.

I've noticed that she has high feet. Sometimes she can't reach things but can put her feet on holds that I can't get to. She is 40-50lbs lighter than me and I'm skinny, that helps a ton. When I get scrunched up and hang my ass out, it's a lot of leverage, not so for her.

There is an ideal height for climbing but it's not tall. It's probably in the 5' to 5'6" range.

I'm sure Lynn said what she said & mostly as words of encouragement. But there are plenty of moves that are limited by length: moves that require opposition force between 2 or more limbs to hold on to. If you can't span them, no amount of power will help. Nevertheless, most of the time, lack of length can be overcome by being better/stronger.

Be on time..That is it... I mentor two different people and it does make a difference (to me anyway).

Lol,the title got my attention

highaltitudeflatulentexpulsion wrote:If this thing is going the way of height...There is an ideal height for climbing but it's not tall. It's probably in the 5' to 5'6" range.

FWIW, Honnold, Ondra and Sharma are all about 6'.

highaltitudeflatulentexpulsion wrote:If this thing is going the way of height. My wife is 4'9". She routinely onsights 12a, and she's a full time student. When life isn't so much in the way she's even stronger. I've noticed that she has high feet. Sometimes she can't reach things but can put her feet on holds that I can't get to. She is 40-50lbs lighter than me and I'm skinny, that helps a ton. When I get scrunched up and hang my ass out, it's a lot of leverage, not so for her. There is an ideal height for climbing but it's not tall. It's probably in the 5' to 5'6" range.

Its not about how tall but how wide!!!

I'm 6' tall... and 6'4" wide ;-)

The first problem is usually finding a good partner (going back onto the original thread)