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Books for multipitch and advanced techniques (systems etc)?

Original Post
El Duderino · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 70

I am looking for a book that can discuss multipitch techniques and systems for more efficient climbing both for trad and redpointing sport routes. I glanced at Toprope to Redpoint and found it alltogether too basic to be useful to me. I don't understand why every single climbing book seems to feel the need to differentiate between a sloper, crimp and jug. I was looking at I have heard good things about Andy Kirkpatrick's High-Advanced Multi-pitch climbing. However, I was wondering if anyone has gotten their mitts on Advanced Rock Climbing: Expert Skills and Techniques and can compare it to Kirkpatrick's book or otherwise comment?

Jeremy Bauman · · Lakewood, CO · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,067

I picked up Donahue's book a month or so ago and have been going through it. So far, it has already proven to be worth every penny. Very good insight into some advanced concepts. Already have added a number of time saving tools to my tool belt that have paid off.

Haven't picked up Andy Kirkpatrick's book yet, but I plan to based on the supplementary info found at multipitchclimbing.com

Marty C · · Herndon, VA · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 70

I have both books. I agree, Andy K's book is more basic (but very good).

Advanced Rock Climbing by Topher Donahue is geared toward experienced trad (sport, big wall) climbers.

"This book is not for beginners! As noted, we assume you are already at least an intermediate climber and well versed in the climbing basics....Before using the techniques explained here, you must first become intimately familiar with the fundamental, textbook methods of climbing."

I have been climbing trad for about 20 years. Most of the tips/techniques in this book were familaier to me. However, I did pick up a few new ideas.

If you can afford the book (~$25), I would not hesitate to buy it.

Good luck.

Alex Rogers · · Sydney, Australia · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 40

High (Kirkpatrick and Coley) is a fantastic source of hard-won knowledge. I review it every year or so to remind myself of some of the more esoteric stuff, and in terms of content (rather than presentation) couldn't recommend it more. Haven't seen the other one yet.

Sunny-D · · SLC, Utah · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 700

Can you buy High-Advanced multi pitch rock climbing in book form? I've looked and have only found a kindle version. I would love a paper copy if it is available.

David Coley · · UK · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 70
Sunny-D wrote:Can you buy High-Advanced multi pitch rock climbing in book form? I've looked and have only found a kindle version. I would love a paper copy if it is available.
Unfortunately, no.
El Duderino · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 70
Sunny-D wrote:Can you buy High-Advanced multi pitch rock climbing in book form? I've looked and have only found a kindle version. I would love a paper copy if it is available.
Nope. That's the main reason I was looking at the Donahue book.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Trad Climbing
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