Anyone ever climbed Modern Psychedelic in the Gunks?

Looks like yet another interesting climb/link-up highlighted in the Gunks App that I would not have noticed just using MP and the guidebook.

My question - is the line and crux roof relatively straightforward to find if you just head right before the Modern Times crux? Not much beta out there.

Logan Schiff wrote:Looks like yet another interesting climb/link-up highlighted in the Gunks App that I would not have noticed just using MP and the guidebook. My question - is the line and crux roof relatively straightforward to find if you just head right before the Modern Times crux? Not much beta out there.

Well that is not super inspiring :) I take it you were able to retreat relatively easily at least?

That' is an interesting question, I'm not an AP user, can you show me the line ?

I've climbed up and down all over that real estate.
On Psychedelic the Climbing is far right of Modern Times,

there is nothing straight-forward about the old line, that needs one to climb down back into the corner to start the long traverse....

Climbing out of the Psychedelic corner, Left, to the short slab that makes up the right edge of the 'Stack' or giant flake, that starts off of the GT ledge, and then up left to re-join Modern Times?

Merlin Larsen led from the base of the flake (off to the left of the corner) then up through a series of overlaps or tiers,to a similar reachy move and mantel. not finding it anymore inspiring as it missed the fun of coming out up through the corner. Then rather than climb the second ascent of the direct that I'd led, he went left at what is now a big bush.( see comments on variations)

(Jun 24, 2014)
From the ground, there is an Independent climb. (5.6 pg/r) It starts in an open book steps right at 20ft onto the blunt arête and then shadows the original line iwich s to the left by about 20 feet.
It is best to climb onto the GT ledge at the regular routes spot.( cleaned of debris )
so the thought was it was too similar to be it’s own line.

The second pitch is the stuff,
Climb carefully up the stacked flake,
avoiding the mud and rubble on the GT ledge.
move up left then back & up left of center,

Or move more right easier, in corner on the edge of the flake
(can be wet)to top of the 'Stack or flake"
continue…, up the regular Modern Times crux, Above the lip stay left . .. ..
The direct finish is :…

Stay left after the crux go up slab /face to the bush under the white cap stone .

(the bush is almost in the way nowadays, sling it as gear.)

The horizontal also takes big cam :
Many sizes will work.
( #3. 5, C4 is the biggest piece needed on the whole route)

Find the Amazing Hold at the edge of the overhang,
to the RIGHT of the bush (v2 breaks out left)
above A.H. are two sharp holes (Use 1? for gear)
if you need, the short person may
need to get a hold here to reach to the horizontal,

get gear ( & ) the gear at the horizontal,
(tri-cams,, #.75 BD C4 -or 1.5 Frnd size)

move up smooth clean -ed, white rock . . .
the streak between the lichen.

5.10b ?
(harder if you are short)
tall person has to have high step ability,

well protected with springy things & Tri-cams.

(v1) the left exit is short and stout; use crimps /side pulls to gain the ledge above, Don’t touch the block that is sitting on the ledge (mantel) this is a Top of the cliff V2/3 Boulder problem.

The Bombay chimney, to the right of all the business just described,
escapes at about 5.7(r) and can house birds and mega-poop.

Christian Fracchia wrote: I did it twice last season and it actually had a fair amount of chalk on it. It's not chossy at all but the beginning blocks on MT, where the traverse begins, are hollow. If you've done MT more than once I would highly recommend doing it, it's a thriller.

Thanks Michael. What I had in mind based on the app topo traverses right a little below the modern times crux/first roof move for a ways, maybe 20 feet or so, and busts through a roof somewhat right of the mantle move on MT maybe 10 feet or so, supposedly at 9+. Anyway sounds like there are lot of interesting options and that it won't be very straightforward.

I tried to onsight modern psychadelic in the summer of 2015. I couldn't find the traverse right so I ended up just doing Modern Times. I remember the traverse looked very chossy but easy if nothing fell off. It also looked kind of uninspiring to me.

Marc801 wrote: I was never able to find the line - even after several forays.

Thanks Chris. Yes, done MT a few times and excited to try this if not likely to get hopelessly lost figuring out where to pull the roof. Sounds like it's a go!

PS: I am yet to climb anything listed in the Gunks App with 3 or more stars that was not great.

Logan Schiff wrote:Thanks Chris. Yes, done MT a few times and excited to try this if not likely to get hopelessly lost figuring out where to pull the roof. Sounds like it's a go! PS: I am yet to climb anything listed in the Gunks App with 3 or more stars that was not great.

Follow the rope line in the photo. When you hit an great #2 or #3 Camalot horizontal head straight up (committing crux) to a really bad stance below a small roof. Continue straight through the roof to the ledge after the crux on MT.

Awesome, thanks! Psyched to try this spring.

Logan bring a second #3 or a #2 because you are going to blow it big time on this one.

LOL. Yes, already planning to put in two pieces there.

climbed this yesterday. once you reach up from where andy is in the above photo to the finger slot directly under the roof you'll be really disappointed that there is no stance or gear available. But don't worry, the roof looks big but it's easy. Feels like drunkards delight, 5.6 so just top out.

Funny you mention it. I tried it this spring and was a little intimidated by the lack of visible gear so bailed right. Recently put a friend on it. He did what i now assume was the crux to the roof no prob but was intimidated by the roof and decided to hang on some crappy little piece. It popped and he went for quite a ride only to finish out right.

Will definitely just go for it next time. Thanks for the beta!

gtluke wrote:

climbed this yesterday. once you reach up from where andy is in the above photo to the finger slot directly under the roof you'll be really disappointed that there is no stance or gear available. But don't worry, the roof looks big but it's easy. Feels like drunkards delight, 5.6 so just top out.

I would agree w Christian that the roof felt a little more stout than 5.6 but otherwise this was good advice to keep going. I'm glad I saw it before going up there.

Thrilling route, another great linkup/variation brought to attention via the Gunks App. Thanks guys!