Bolting at Bishop Peak
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Been climbing at Bishop Peak for a couple years now and the more I do, the more annoyed I am with a lot of bolting at Bishop Peak. Let me preface the rest of this by saying I do not intend to change/add/remove any bolts. |
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What other climbs would you like to see more bolts on? (note: I am a local) |
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Just some friendly advice while your in the area, don't worry about it, climb in other places. And if you really want your questions answered the kool-aid drinkers will come crawling out of the manzanita and poison oak by the droves. |
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Just some more friendly advice while YOUR in the area. Climb at the Tor. |
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LOL |
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Let me step back a bit, I was a little hyperbolic in my first statement. A lot of the bolting is just fine, and I appreciate the lack of bolts by solid gear placements. For example mouse maze and no permit required are great. I really appreciate all the work (and money) the first ascentionists and others put into Bishop Peak. |
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Mitch Alexander wrote:Let me step back a bit, I was a little hyperbolic in my first statement. A lot of the bolting is just fine, and I appreciate the lack of bolts by solid gear placements. For example mouse maze and no permit required are great. I really appreciate all the work (and money) the first ascentionists and others put into Bishop Peak. Frank, I'm not a huge fan of Camel, I believe it could use another bolt between the second and third and maybe a new one below the first. Gold Rush could also use a bolt between one and two. Llama could use a lower first bolt. And there are another few at P Wall I can never remember the name of that are a little spacey.Mitch, Impacted Stool Crack could use another bolt, but you can toprope it from the P-Crack Anchor. Those others you mention just need to be rehearsed on toprope before you lead them, or be confident that you can safely lead them onsight. Just because someone isn't comfortable with the bolting, doesn't mean it needs more bolts. As is the case with those other climbs you mentioned. Get strong enough to lead those climbs without additional bolts. Which leaves me out! |
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Having lived in SLO for a couple of years, I think the bolting is fine. If you aren't comfortable with the protection, you aren't ready for the route. It's as simple as that. If you get hurt on the climb, it's your fault for not being good enough for the demands of the route. |
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I guess this is the typical agree to disagree bolting argument. |
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I've led every route listed here except for Impacted Stool Crack, and I am *not* a bold leader. Each of these routes is easily and safely topropeable, so we're not even talking about bolting *preventing* certain climbers from attempting routes, just preventing those climbers from attempting them in a particular *style*. There are also numerous routes at the Peak that are more generously protected, so there *are* lead options for most competent leaders, even if they're not the specific routes under discussion. |
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Never argue for more bolts on easily top rope-able climbs that don't make for a worthy lead. |
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If I remember correctly, I would usually lead the crack, and go far left. There is a bolted climb that has more reasonably placed bolts. I think it hugs the arette. It's been a while though. |
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Mitch Alexander wrote:Been climbing at Bishop Peak for a couple years now and the more I do, the more annoyed I am with a lot of bolting at Bishop Peak. Let me preface the rest of this by saying I do not intend to change/add/remove any bolts. But the bolting is pretty unfriendly. While Bishop Peak may have a bit of a history, it is not steeped in lore and ethics like other areas, so the defense of some of the more egregious bolting seems unnecessary. For example, Impacted Stool Crack is a very risky endeavor because it is a crack for 15 feet and then the climber has to climb into serious injury/death fall territory to finish. Why? And there are other climbs not as serious but with pretty bad bolting. Has anyone considered talking to the first ascentionists about adding some more on select climbs?IS crack is a 1970 Richard Harrison FA. That's the bold style of the fa'ist, putting up a bold lead, going for it, and now its a historical test piece. If you know anything about R. Harrison or seen any more of his fa's, I think you might understand it all better. It was the style of the times, nearly a lost art these days in most fa situations. The mind set was different back then. Remember no cams in 1970. Hexes, nuts and pins protected that crack, then he cruised the upper slab without the feeling of putting in a bolt or pin. He was the FIRST person to HTFU and do it. So, that's it, that's the route. Pretty bold for most. Funny how some 70s Hardman leads popped up in SLO. Ahh, winters in CA. I don't mind the bolting at Bishops. A nice mix of old and new school. Good practice for bold leads in other SW climbing venues. |
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Michael McNutt wrote:If I remember correctly, I would usually lead the crack, and go far left. There is a bolted climb that has more reasonably placed bolts. I think it hugs the arette. It's been a while though.Yeah, thats Out of Hangars. Probably the most reasonable way to link up a somewhat reasonably-protected leads off of Impacted Stool. |
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Dude, just get in your car and drive to Kernville. |
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Thanks for your input everyone. |
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Keep Bishop Peak Old School!! |
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I don't think you can ask Tobin what he wishes. |
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Some of those sketchy routes were put up by Tobin Sorensen who was loved by many and passed away. I'd imagine it would be hard to get support for changing his routes. |
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I learned to climb at Bishop Peak and for better or for worse it has made me a bolder climber in the long run. I painstakingly worked up to each of the climbs you have listed, and feel that the reward was higher because of it. Not so great if you're an out-of-towner, but in that case you can toprope or climb something that has better protection, as others have said. I don't believe adding new bolts to existing climbs is the answer, but if it's a question of updating the hardware with something newer/beefier/more sustainable I'm all for it. I've climbed all over the world and Bishop Peak still holds a special place in my heart. |