Racking efficiency - alpines vs shoulder slings

King Tut wrote: There is no wrong way, as long as it works for you on the route of your choice.

This.

Well, the PAS thong is definitely a wrong way.

King Tut wrote: We are blessed to have one of the most living languages on Earth, if not the most "living". What it means to be a living language is one that is both spoken and having new words being added to it daily. The dominant language on Earth is also the one having the most new words being added to it daily, so we English speakers have got that going for us. "Alpines" is an example of a new word being tested out. If it becomes common enough, it goes in the Dictionary. So there is no such thing as grammatical rules written in stone or improper words being used, only new innovations that either gets adopted or goes out of style, dude. See what I did there?

FUNNN!!!!!! Let's talk about descriptivism and climbing terminology!!!

I'll grant that in general, we live in a descriptivist world. You won't see me going around correcting split infinitives or insisting that we not end sentences with prepositions.

But I'll push back in favor of prescriptivism in the specific realm of climbing language (and not just because the adjective-to-noun functional shift is one I find particularly galling). We play a specialized and dangerous game and precision in language is an important risk mitigation tool.

I have lectured many a new climber on the importance of using correct language. The difference between "on belay" and "on rappel" can kill. And I've seen it grossly misused and not just by brand new people ("I'll just belay down after I finish the route" (huh?)).

Could shortening "alpine draw" to "alpine" kill? It seems unlikely. But consider: your partner is a hundred feet away, and in a lull in the wind, she screams something about unclipping the "alpine." Is she talking about the alpine butterfly you're tied into? Or the alpine draw clipped to the anchor that's giving her rope drag? Or the Alpine Houdini on your harness? Or the AlpineUp you're belaying her with? You'd love to clarify, but the freight train wind steals your reply. Wouldn't you wish your partner had used more precise language?

Yeah, language matters. "Off belay" vs "on direct" can be the difference between life and death if you haven't adequately communicated how you're getting down from an anchor.

nkane wrote: FUNNN!!!!!! Let's talk about descriptivism and climbing terminology!!! I'll grant that in general, we live in a descriptivist world. You won't see me going around correcting split infinitives or insisting that we not end sentences with prepositions. But I'll push back in favor of prescriptivism in the specific realm of climbing language (and not just because the adjective-to-noun functional shift is one I find particularly galling). We play a specialized and dangerous game and precision in language is an important risk mitigation tool. I have lectured many a new climber on the importance of using correct language. The difference between "on belay" and "on rappel" can kill. And I've seen it grossly misused and not just by brand new people ("I'll just belay down after I finish the route" (huh?)). Could shortening "alpine draw" to "alpine" kill? It seems unlikely. But consider: your partner is a hundred feet away, and in a lull in the wind, she screams something about unclipping the "alpine." Is she talking about the alpine butterfly you're tied into? Or the alpine draw clipped to the anchor that's giving her rope drag? Or the Alpine Houdini on your harness? Or the AlpineUp you're belaying her with? You'd love to clarify, but the freight train wind steals your reply. Wouldn't you wish your partner had used more precise language?

Or myself and consequently am sensitive to precisely what you are saying as I nearly got killed (took a 100' fall) in nearly the exact scenario you are describing...but I think "Alpines" is pretty benign compared to the various permutations of "off" and "belay" etc that are the standard commands that with confusion can get you killed.

I told my belayer I was jumping off (because I couldn't do the moves) and she said "ok" and I jumped. She took me off belay.

The belayer got badly burned hands but I got to send the route the next day with another friend (led it, but took once). Fortunately the route was steep and even falling past the anchor I got only tiny scratches being on the 2nd pitch (Shipoopi, right next to Bachar Yerian). So it goes and you are still stuck with me for the time being.

:)

Yikes! I think I would have taken up fly-fishing at that point.