Indian Creek Anchor Replacement
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Hey All, |
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damn that bolt looks new and it ...."just pulled out by hand"? |
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BigB wrote:damn that bolt looks new and it ...."just pulled out by hand"?Sure did! |
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Free Berlin on cat wall. Bolted anchor at top of p2 just has old sun faded slings tied to the hangers for rapping. This is an excellent Yosemite style multi pitch that needs some love. |
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Sam! A few routes at scarface could use some love. Torque wrench has one good bolt but it isn't properly equalized with the SH hanger and the SMC so it might be worth looking at. Twitch has 2 SMC hangars with no chain and some tat, twitch is definitely in desperate need of help, torque wrench can wait. Hope to see you soon vuddy! |
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And even though it isn't a super classic, "for dewey" could use chain for sure. I haven't been up to check out the bolts but hopefully I will later in the season. |
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Which wall is For Dewey at? Thanks for the input! |
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Sam, you're the man, thanks for all your efforts. |
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It's a tips crack at scarface between big guy and wavy gravy. |
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Please consider donating. Even a few $ will help. |
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Matt Pierce wrote:Please consider donating. Even a few $ will help. safeclimbing.org/help.htm+1,000,000 |
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It's not just the tops of the climbs that need love, consider joining the Access Fund on the 18th for some trail work, fitness and a free tan! |
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Lieutenant Uhuru is another Scarface route that could use some love. Current anchor is two drilled angles with a newer bolt up higher, all connected with tat. Needs chain and the bolt could use some wrenching. |
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Thanks Joe! |
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In the interest of aggregating a comprehensive list, I think the anchor at the top of Blue Gramma could stand an update, especially considering how frequently that route gets done. I'd be happy to contribute to the replacement effort next time I'm in the desert. Thanks to everyone who works to keep desert climbing alive. |
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Thanks Dave! |
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Hey Sam, |
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A lot of anchors at Selfish Wall need replacing/updating |
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BigB wrote:damn that bolt looks new and it ...."just pulled out by hand"?30LBS of torque is more then people would assume. |
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Tylerpratt wrote: 30LBS of torque is more then people would assume.Actually with that type of crappy 3/8" expansion bolt, the max installation torque is more like 12 ft-lbs even for carbon steel. Here's a similar bolt that should never be used for climbing (but you'll find on routes): powers.com/product_06160.php The strength on that style 3/8" sleeve bolt is barely stronger than a 1/4" buttonhead! |
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Wow! Fuck that hardware... |