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Luna Luna
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Feb 27, 2017
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New Haven, CT
· Joined Mar 2016
· Points: 60
I'm headed in a trip where an 80m rope will be necessary for many routes. My partner and I are highly considering purchasing a skinny dynamic rope, there are a few out there in the 9.0-9.2 range that are rated for singles. What are your thoughts on the balance between durability/weight/ safety/ grigri use/ etc... thoughts... comments.. concerns.. recs! Gracias
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George W
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Feb 27, 2017
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Sep 2015
· Points: 6
Unicore technology seems to be the best thing to mitigate the risks associated with a skinny rope. I have three ropes with that feature and they've been great. I think Edelweiss and Beal make one or more in 80m lengths.
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grog m
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Feb 27, 2017
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Saltlakecity
· Joined Aug 2012
· Points: 70
I have 9.1...Love/hate relationship. Love - how light it is, so nice. Good handling. Hate - how fast it can blast through an ATC or GriGri. You have to pay attention when lowering or catching...or it will rip through. Took a huge lead whip on it (~30ft with two blown pieces) and it has a deformed core now. My next rope will be in the 9.3-9.5 range
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Nick Sweeney
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Feb 27, 2017
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Spokane, WA
· Joined Jun 2013
· Points: 969
I'm with Grog, I prefer a little bit more rope when using a single. 9.4 is a nice balance.
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Luna Luna
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Feb 27, 2017
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New Haven, CT
· Joined Mar 2016
· Points: 60
thanks guys, we will be mostly sport climbing so the risk of blown pieces SHOULD be lowered. the concern I've been harping over is fall risk/ larger than expected falls due to the rope flying through ATC or grigri. decreased weight on long routes (encroaching on 40m) is the incentive to go for such a thin rope. perhaps there is a high performance, light weight 9.3 on the market i'm missing
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Ronald B
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Feb 27, 2017
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Los Angeles, CA
· Joined Oct 2016
· Points: 0
I had the Edelrid Swift Pro 8.9 mm rope. It was noticeably lighter and it handled fine when belaying and rappelling through assisted braking devices although I had to be a little more careful when using a regular atc. It was a little more tangly so proper rope management was extra important. But overall, I loved the rope and used it on a bunch of mountains. Unfortunately, it was the wrong rope to use for a Tyrolean traverse and got core damage that led to me having to chop the rope. The damage was near the center so now I have 2 nearly 35 meter ropes that I use as glacier ropes. Could use them as gym ropes too I suppose although I mostly boulder in the gym.
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ROCKMAN2
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Feb 27, 2017
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Nederland, CO
· Joined Jul 2010
· Points: 300
I'm on my second Bluewater 9.1 Icon. I currently use an 80m for really tall sport routes and it is awesome! feels light clipping the 20th bolt and handles great. My first Icon was a 70m and I used it exclusively for all sport/trad climbing for the first year. It took a beating and now is about 50m and still going strong. Works really well with a Grigri2, but you need to go slow when bringing your partner back to earth. It gains speed quickly.
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Bill Kirby
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Feb 27, 2017
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Keene New York
· Joined Jul 2012
· Points: 480
eye of the choss wrote:. perhaps there is a high performance, light weight 9.3 on the market i'm missing Bluewater Wave 9.3mm. The standard one is on eBay for like $150.
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Nick Drake
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Feb 27, 2017
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Kent, WA
· Joined Jan 2015
· Points: 651
I've use a sterling nano quite a bit, bought it as an alpine rope, but ended up using it for some sport also. Lead falls with a grigri are fine, didn't notice any issues lowering. I have caught small falls with an ATC and felt it was fine as well. The sheath isn't the best though, I've seen a fair amount of fuzzing for how much use it's really seen. I hear the bluewater icon/wave has a burlier sheath for the size.
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Luna Luna
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Feb 27, 2017
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New Haven, CT
· Joined Mar 2016
· Points: 60
I've been staring down the blue water icon
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20 kN
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Feb 27, 2017
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Feb 2009
· Points: 1,346
I use a skinny for everything except aid. The thickest rope I use anymore is 9.5mm and my main rope is 9.2 for sport climbing. For multipitch, I use a 70m 8.9mm Unicore. I have few concerns with using them, although you do need to be careful around sharp rock and make sure your belayer actually uses the GriGri the proper way.
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Luna Luna
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Feb 27, 2017
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New Haven, CT
· Joined Mar 2016
· Points: 60
John this is more or less exactly my concern, I don't want to be overseas with an issue. I ended up going for the bluewater 9.3
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