Rock climbing shoes for big toe arthritis

Unfortunately, age is creeping up on me and my big toe arthritis needs to be mitigated longterm. While I work on other ways of protecting it, I need a new indoor gym shoe ASAP (outside, I'll keep to my tc pros, which seem to be fine for now).

Requirements:

- as stiff as possible
- spread the pressure at the tip among multiple toes rather than just focused on the big toe
- downturned toe not a priority

For reference, I've been wearing (and loving) scarpa boostics.

Any ideas (also if anyone thinks there is a better all day trad shoe than the tc pro for my circumstances, I'd love to hear about it!

aliebling Liebling wrote: Any ideas (also if anyone thinks there is a better all day trad shoe than the tc pro for my circumstances, I'd love to hear about it!

I learned about a bunion and arthritis in my right toe over a year ago. It sucks but I have made it manageable. I climb in Mythos ans Scarpa Instincts and feel much better. But I also throw a toe spacer in between my big toe and the next or keep my shoes on as little as possible. Also there are exercises that can be done that strengthen tendons in the foot and muscles supporting it.

Id be curious to look at a pair of Red Chillis, the have models with a wider toe box giving some relief.

I'm definitely in the "take my shoes off between every climb" camp. It helps a ton.

I think the tc pro is as good (balance of performance, regular comfort and arthritis-comfort) as a shoe is going to get for me outdoors.

Anyone have experience with some of the boreals? Something like the marduk?

Or maybe the scarpa techno x?

I have the same issue with my big toe. I bought a pair of 5.10 Verdon lace ups. They have a molded plastic piece under the forefoot to help with edging but it also helps reduce toe pain in my case.

I've known a few w/ big toe issues that like the Scarpa Boostics, as it's very stiff and very asymmetric (aligns the big toe fairly straight) with only a moderate amount of downturn, but the toe box is fairly high volume, which doesn't encourage flat toes.

I don't like the TC Pro that much as it's a bit too symmetric (which I hate in general in a climbing shoe as that + tight fitting is just bunion waiting to happen); the new (bumble bee yellow) Scarpa Vapor lace has both low volume toe box and more asymmetry than the TC Pro (and in general, the Scarpa line has wider forefoot and more asymmetry than the equivalent in Sportiva).

I know I say this all the time but...Katana Laces. I have big toe issues and can climb comfortably in only TCs and Katanas.

Don Ferris wrote:I know I say this all the time but...Katana Laces. I have big toe issues and can climb comfortably in only TCs and Katanas.

Take the insole out of the shoe you use now, lay it on a piece of tin or aluminum sheet metal. Draw around it with a sharpie. Cut it out, duct tape the edges and put it in the shoe. Reinstall the insole. This will make the toe bed stiffer and have more support. It will probably make a popping sound when you walk on it but it may do the trick.

You could try just the toe bed to the mid-sole first.

Best of luck! JB

I put an extra layer of rubber on the bottom of my gym shoes to accomplish the same. Ruins sensitivity, but I haven't had any feeling in my big toes for 10 years anyway... so no effect for me :-)

I don't have arthritis, but I do have a case of turf toe (basically a tendon that is too loose and allows my toe to flex to far). For this I have found the Five Ten Quantum sized at or 1/2 size bigger than my street shoe to be perfect. The sole is really stiff, it is very slightly downturned, but doesn't feel like it. Awesome Shoe.

And to answer the question, no there is no better multi-pitch trad shoe than the TC Pro. They just plain nailed it.

I ordered two sizes of vapor lace. We'll see if one of them works out. The quantum looks like a nice alternative if they don't.

Thanks to all for the feedback!

reboot wrote:I don't like the TC Pro that much as it's a bit too symmetric (which I hate in general in a climbing shoe as that + tight fitting is just bunion waiting to happen); the new (bumble bee yellow) Scarpa Vapor lace has both low volume toe box and more asymmetry than the TC Pro (and in general, the Scarpa line has wider forefoot and more asymmetry than the equivalent in Sportiva).

I have hallux rigidus in both big toes; I had surgery on both feet. Next step for me is a fusion.

For years I climbed in evolv's with a custom, carbon fiber orthotic in each climbing shoe. They worked perfectly. Due to circumstances surrounding the production of the orthotics, I had to switch to TC Pros and I am so happy. I no longer need to rely on orthotics and my toes are very comfortable all day. They are stiff, yet you can stick to anything. A great shoe for someone with arthritis.

(My entire story is on Rockclimbing.com under "chronicle of my toes"

Good luck!

I also have arthritis in the big toe of my bigger left foot. One thing that has helped over the years independent of climbing shoes is to tape the two middle toes on that foot together. My big toe is the longest of my toes and the tape forces the other two toes to provide more support for my big toe which alleviates some of the discomfort. One suggestion for indoor shoes would be Velcro katanas. You might be able to still find some available sizes and the shoe is built on the same last as the TC pro. They are easy on/off and stiffish for support. Lastly, I often climb in my TC pros even in the gym. The holds are positively huge compared to outdoors (I climb in Eldo) and even if they are not working ideally, who cares- it is just training anyway. Drop a grade and get the same workout outcome.

IF THE SHOEs FIT ?

all the links were dead, you can have an expert in leather-work, match shoes to ones needs. It is a trial & error thing to find the right platform to re-work. The better quality, "board Lasted" 'boots', that can be dis-assembled, stripped & re-built with a stiffen'd toe box , will be a better bet than a Slipper type 'shoe'. 

• gblauer Blauer wrote:"I have hallux rigidus in both big toes; I had surgery on both feet. Next step for me is a fusion. For years I climbed in evolv's with a custom, carbon fiber orthotic in each climbing shoe. ...." 

• Did you have arthrodesis surgery? If so,  were you able to climb afterward? Did doc position your fusion with a slight angle? 

• I had similar problem from fractures in big toe and couldn't climb for years. I'm ~12wks post op (metal plate and 5 screws in left foot) and hoping to get back into climbing again. Any suggestions? I know I'll need new shoes of some kind. 

interesting thread.
I fucked up my toes during my "extremely tight shoes period" i´m in street shoes 43-44 and usually used shoes from 39-41 for years.
Big toes now with lumps and stuff but never any pain. I haven´t been using so tight shoes lately but suddenly over night i´m struggling with pain. Now i´m using red chilly sausalito shoes most of the time,  super stiff shoe with a wide toe box and sized comfortably. It´s working in terms of pain but performance is not so good. I climbed a pitch in my brothers tc pro and it seemed better so i think that will be my next attempt.